2016/08/09 10:44:27
92 Hard Top
Not married and no kids! Ah that how you have time do it.
2016/08/09 10:58:50
robk
grosso
Not married and no kids! Ah that how you have time do it.

I can't deny that!
2016/08/09 13:38:05
Rob
ooooooooo did u cut up that genuine trd/toms dash cluster....I think I might cry if u did
2016/08/09 13:54:26
robk
Rob
ooooooooo did u cut up that genuine trd/toms dash cluster....I think I might cry if u did



No, it's still in the same good condition in which you sold it to me, so don't worry. The cutting was performed on my original dash. 
However, I did remove the TRD 300km/h electronic speedo gauge from the Toms dash and installed it into my original dash, so the Toms dash is now missing a speedo gauge. 
2016/08/19 16:49:20
JDM_GT
im installing a haltech iq3 dash and i have the same mechanical sensor, but trying to use the converted pulses to input into the iq3 dash, hopefully this works, if not i will have to convert the sensor to a electronic type like this.
2016/08/19 17:51:00
Guest
Great info. I have an electronic speedo conversion to do :) better insight now.
2016/08/19 18:52:49
robk
JDM_GT
im installing a haltech iq3 dash and i have the same mechanical sensor, but trying to use the converted pulses to input into the iq3 dash, hopefully this works, if not i will have to convert the sensor to a electronic type like this.


As I mentioned in the last paragraph of my post above, the electronic speedo sender in the gearbox of later SW20s generates pulses at exactly the same rate as the cable-driven speedo gauge in the dash cluster of early SW20s. So it shouldn't make a difference. The electronic sender in the gearbox does generate a cleaner signal, but that's the only difference, and they're both square waves.
If you have a mechanical sender and speedo, then I think you should be able to just use the purple/white wire which goes from the dash back to the ECU.
2016/09/10 15:13:04
robk
I have a small update about my A2W intercooler system.
 
Last time I checked the water level I noticed that it had dropped, but there were no leaks so I knew that there had to be air stuck somewhere in the system. I decided to add an air bleeding point at the front of the car where there's another high point in the system and there would've been air bubbles collecting there.
 
Plazmaman made this little thing for me in 10 minutes. I added it in series with one of the water hoses at the highest point at the front of the car.

 
As it turned out, I was able to put it in a spot where it's very easy to access by simply removing the plastic surround from the front of one of the pop-up headlights.

 
When required, I can just pull the little hose out like this and remove the AN-4 cap to allow the air to bleed out properly. I can temporarily add a clear tube in the same way as I described back when I installed the PWR radiator for the main engine cooling system.

 
I also got this little AN-4 fitting welded on to the top of my intercooler core. Previously MRC had drilled and tapped a hole there and sealed it with a bolt and crush washer, which was fine for a few years because I never had to remove it. However, recently I had to remove the bolt a few times and the thread started to strip and a slow leak developed there.

 
The little black cap has an optional O-ring inside it for good sealing.

 
Note that the filler neck on the side of the intercooler core isn't at the highest point, which is why MRC originally added that extra bleeding point at the very highest point in the system.
 
In order for me to get that little fitting welded onto the intercooler core, I had to totally remove it from the engine bay for the first time ever. I took the opportunity to relocate the flex fuel sensor because it was previously hidden and completely inaccessible on the firewall in front of the intercooler core.
 
Oh, and I also got a new windscreen from O'Brien glass a few weeks ago. The 26-year-old original windscreen had heaps of ugly little stone chips and a frustrating amount of smearing on the inside. It's so nice to be able to see clearly out the windscreen again, especially when driving directly towards the sun! lol
2016/09/10 17:26:05
Jaemus
Nice work Rob! Love all the little improvements, just when you thought it couldn't get better :)
2016/09/10 19:26:38
stuka
good work Rob, you and plazmaman have a good relationship going, its great to have a fabricator to rely on.
 
how much was the windscreen roughly?
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