Cool thanks for the link I'll check it out
 

I don't think the mechanic did this... I guess I'll have to bleed the system myself... I replaced the radiator (rusty) with a aluminium radiator from ebay so not sure if it has a bleed valve... Will bleeding it from the 2nd bleed valve in the frunk be sufficient? 
 
So for me to bleed it properly see as though the flushing bit has been done, I just need to get a hose and connect it to the bleed valve in the frunk.
Then raise the hose and start the engine? wait for the air to come out? How long do I let the engine run for? Until the fan kicks in? Do I then shut the engine off and watch for more air bubbles to come out? then when cool down top up coolant from the engine bay? Repeat as many times until no more air bubble?
 
I also read this on another article "Once the hoses up front are to the level of the rear pressure cap you can put the cap back on, and start up the car" Not sure what that means? how can you measure the front and rear?
 

RE bleeding:
Before attempting to do this yourself, I suggest you download the PDF and read it again carefully. Everything you need to know is all in there.
To bleed it properly is a LONG process, and needs patience to do it properly.
Also don't worry about whether fans come on or not while you are bleeding it.
 
BTW you will need 2 bleed service hoses, one on the heater and one on the LH side top of the radiator and the car should be on a level floor. The pic shows this.
 
 

I have aftermarket radiator with no bleed valve? Is that going going b b problem?

I just spoke with my mechanic friend who advised he has been bleed too I can use

I've read and followed the instructions in the link you provided... But I'm curious, my aftermarket radiator does not have a bleed valve... Will bleeding from the heater core be sufficent? 

This is the radiator I bought... No bleed valve.. I can see on the top right hand side there is a bolt... can I simple unbolt that and let it bleed that way?
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280775958407?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
 
If I do unscrew the top bleed nut, what can I put around the thread to ensure it doesn't leak?

petmr2
This is the radiator I bought... No bleed valve.. I can see on the top right hand side there is a bolt... can I simple unbolt that and let it bleed that way?
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280775958407?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 

I don't think bleeding from the heater alone would work properly as air would still be trapped in the top of the radiator.
That 'bolt' in the top of the radiator would be a plug, and if you remove it coolant will spill everywhere. But if you have plenty of spare coolant and don't mind a mess you could try it.
You really need to replace the plug with a brass tap with a hose connector. That would allow proper bleeding.
It should be a stock size plumbing thread.
 

I have no idea which brass tap to get and where from... If I remove the nut for now would that be sufficient? I don't plan on flushing the system that often...e very 2 years

Eurgh what a laborious task bleeding one of these is, very similar to Renault 5 GT Turbo's.
 
Try removing the cap while the engine is idling, once you get your water fountain put it back on while trying not to get soaked and beware the water will be a little warm......