2013/07/17 21:08:11
track_mr2
Okay so I took my car for a quick drive around the block as its been having trouble starting. After sitting for a few days often if I go to start the car it make a horrible metallic clunk sound and the engine seizes. If I try turning the ignition it wont spin, like the engine is completely seized, then after a few minutes it will start spinning and fire up. The car smells rich on start up, very rich, so I figure I'm getting bore washing, where the car is running so rich the oil is getting washed off the cylinder walls. Thoughts?
 
Anyway I thought I'd take it for a drive to move some oil around the engine and bores. It was all running fine, then when boosting up a hill at around 7,000rpm in 2nd gear the engine completely shut off and the car rolled to a stop. I couldn't get the car to fire again, basically like it had no spark. the starter was spinning but not even a stutter. Anyway after some time rolling down the hill in neutral and trying to roll start the car, it started and I managed to get it home. I could not lift fully off the accelerator as the car would stall as soon as I lift.
 
So I look under the car and there is a mix of oil and petrol from the intake and intercooler sides, basically dripping down to the ground. I take off the intake and there is some oil/fuel on the air filter and a lot of oil/fuel on the intake side of the turbo and up the intake pipe. There is no oil/fuel on the catch can line going into the intake so I figure it is coming out of the turbo. Any idea on what's wrong?
 
I did a fault code check and I'm getting fault code 12 as well. Anyone know what this fault code is and what can cause it or had similar problems to this?
I've got a Gen 3 MR2 Turbo.
 
 
 
 
 
2013/07/18 09:28:25
kojab
Might be a faulty ECU.
 
I too have been having similar fuel leaking and cranking issues but my engine light did not come on so I did not check for any fault codes. 
 
Did your engine light come on or did you just read the codes?
 
I thought initially I had at least one injector not closing intermittently possibly fueling up the engine. I was not keen to pull the injectors and fortunately for me I had a spare ECU and since changing it I have had no more problems.  It could be the capacitors leaking or going bad in your ECU.
 
Is your car out in the cold at night?
 
2013/07/18 10:45:07
track_mr2
I was worried it might be a faulty ECU. I've got a Mines chipped ECU.
The car is always garaged. When it starts, it will fire on one cylinder, then after a little while pick up another cylinder and another till all are firing.
 
I had no engine lights come on, I just checked the fault codes. Yeah I was thinking I had an injector stuck open too or something but defintely not after the engine just cut out. Based on the fault code I reckon its one of these three things:
Coil is faulty
Ignitor Module is Faulty
ECU is faulty
 
The bad part in a way is the car starts now and runs. So the problem is intermitten. So the faulty ECU caused your overfuelling?
2013/07/18 13:29:44
kojab
It has so far but like yours it was intermittent for a few months, then was really bad. I was afraid to drive it any where as it would fuel up that bad the battery would go flat with me trying to start it.
 
Maybe wait till your's gets worse and then borrow a ECU from somewhere.
 
2013/07/18 13:39:23
track_mr2
I spoke to a ECU exprt who fixes ECU's. He was saying he can check the ECU for me but really, really doubts the ECU is at fault. I've got to a do a few tests before giving it to him. He was saying to run the car with the MAP sensor disconnected and see if it overfuels on start up still. He also said to check the fuel pressure as I may have a block in the return line.
This doesn't explain why it cut out while driving through. That will have to be ECU, Ignitor or coil related.
What fuel pressure should I look for when I do my pressure test?
2013/07/18 16:52:39
Mrskylighter
Check out this site for your Gen3. http://www.celicatech.com/bgbonline/94_205_engine/EG/EG.htm
Has all the troubleshooting techniques as well.
 
Code 12 is a loss of RPM signal it seems.
2013/07/18 16:55:22
Mrskylighter
Also your engine won't run with the map sensor unplugged I'm pretty sure.
 
If you were going to do a pressure test I would be doing a compression test to see how healthy the engine is.
2013/07/18 22:13:52
track_mr2
Okay so continued stripping the engine tonight. The oil/petrol mix was isolated to the turbo seal it didn't make its way to the intercooler or intake. However when I dumped the oil it was basically a 50/50 mix of oil and petrol!!!
About 9 liters of oil/petrol came out and it poured out like water. Hopefully the engine isn't destroyed, I'll have to do a compression test. Luckly though I bought a set of forged rods and pistons last week before the AUD drops even more. So I got a set of forgies sitting here if I need to rebuild.
the big question is what has caused the car to over fuel so much? It doesn't seem to have dropped power in the upper RPM range, it seems more isolated to start up and possibly low rpm. Most likely dodgy O2 sensor? I have no fault codes for it. The plugs to the O2 sensor melted at the track in the heat, so possibly crossed wires? Could that set a positive signal to tell the ECU to constantly fuel during closed loop?
2013/07/18 22:33:56
Mrskylighter
Try unplugging the O2 sensor and run without it for a while. You will get a fault code come up but the car will drive fine. It will just use default values for O2.
 
But if the wires are shorted than yeah it might think its running lean alll the time.
2013/07/18 22:46:15
track_mr2
Thanks for the link Mrskylighter. That diagnostic site is awesome!
One I get another oil filer and complete an oil change and some other tests I'll check O2 sensor. Basically the plug is melted and terminals are sticking out. Could be the problem. I still suspect the igniter or coil to have failed the other day so I will change both aswell.
12.. >> - Powered by APG vNext Trial
© 2025 APG vNext Trial Version 5.5

Use My Existing Forum Account

Use My Social Media Account