Hey guys,
 
I've been thinking about a stroker build using a Gen 3 3sgte block and head.  At this point in time, this is more informative than anything (I don't have any immediate plans to build one just yet) but thought I might as well check I haven't forgotten anything.
 
Ok - so this assuming you have a complete Gen 3 3sgte with all accessories already.
 
Parts
- Gen 3 complete block and head
- Block decked and machined
- 5sfe crank (from any 5sfe engine) that needs to be milled to accept rods
- Bored 0.020 over to 86.5 mm (Gen 3 is 86.00)
- CP pistons 8.5:1 (86.50mm)
- Eagle rods
- Flywheel holes elongated to accept crank
- 8 5sfe flywheel bolts (Toyota)
 
Is there anything I've missed?
 
 

Headgasket (thickness depends on how much is shaved off the head) - if not running a super big turbo/boost, I recommend a slightly higher comp ratio (9.0:1)
Sundries like seals, metal gaskets, etc too
New OEM water & oil pump
ARP head studs
Make sure you use the 3S crank gear instead of the 5S one
Mild cylinder head porting if possible/within means
Cams, valve springs & adjustable gears

You might as well fit ARP main studs to the bottom end while its apart also.

You need a 5s rear main seal 

^ Thanks guys.  The head'll get some attention too: 264 cams, valve springs, gears, port and polish (like MR2QIK suggested) but just wanted to see if there was anything needed to make the 5s crank work in the Gen 3 block.
 
High flow oil pump or stick with the Gen 3 one?

If your getting a new pump anyway you may as well get yourself a late 5S pump.  Can get 5S crank from any engine however if you can find an early one from a celica or something whichout the balance shaft gear your onto a winner though it isn't particularly compulsory (my first 5S stroker had a balance shaft crank fitted).  There are two ways around the crank issue.  Crank machining and then nitriding (you'll machine through the induction hardening on the OEM crankshaft to get it to 3S size) would cost at least $500 I would say.  Alternatively, you can get some Pauter 5S rods and fit them straight to the 5S crank, keeping insitu the factory hardening treatment.  Costs end up about the same (pauter rods more expensive then eagle or something like that, but are also better as well) in the end and you end up with a stronger set of rods, arguably stronger crankshaft (keep more journal overlap, which is a pretty large factor in crankshaft strength).  Downside is the rods and crank journals end up slightly heavier.  I doubt the weight addition, nor the strength loss would matter at all with your goals so either way would be fine.
 
On my first stroker I went with the 5S rods and kept standard journal sizing on the 5S crank.  Latest (unfinished) engine I obviously got the billet stroker crank so no mods needed for install, comes with 3S journal size and flywheel PCD etc and fits 3S rear main seal.  Many ways to skin a cat.  I've probably considered every single one of them and chosen what I consider the best possible compromise between all methods and parts.

Apologies, if you've got a gen 3 sump setup already might be worth running a caldina/beams pump (cant remember if its 100% direct fit, casting on the bottom of the beams/caldina pump is different to allow for crank angle sensor.  You can also run the caldina crank gear and sensor setup if you get yourself a beams or caldina upper pan...
 
So many options :)