The gen3 ecu uses the map sensor to work out fuelling etc, if it is broken it won't run correctly.

You don't need a special tool, just tee in a vac/boost gauge and compare output to specs. Correct you would expect the map sensor output to change if sucking/blowing into it.

Cheers

Need to pressurise the sensor with the engine not running as I don't want to splice into the wire. I read the voltages from the connector to the ECU. There is a hand pump with a boost gauage attached which makes life easier. Anyway pretty close to all sorted so will swap out the other parts then check fueling. If its still lean after the swap in ignitor modules then will change it out.  The ignitor module was causing the rich condition on its way out.....even when I plug that old one back in it makes the car go super rich. So possibly this new is making it go lean. Anyway will find out soon enough, well 4 weeks time when it arrives from the states.
 
 

Alright so update on this.
Pulled out the fuel injector. The bottom o ring on injector 1 was completely eaten away so swapped it over.
Changed ignitor modules to the matching number of my original and the rev limit at 6500rpm has been removed so back to being able to rev to 8000 - 9000rpm if I let it.
So the two things that caused all my problems were the ignitor module going bad which causes the car to fuel up massively. The second was a leaky injector from the rubber o ring wearing out. So that's all solved now.
 
The only issue now though is that the CAT temp light is still coming on after driving for maybe 1minute.
I assume the that maybe the CAT is clogged or ruined because of all the excess fuel? any ideas? I seem to get a few small pops from the exhaust when I lift off the gas if I rev it out. This didn't really happen before. Could it all be related to a blocked CAT or something else?
 

Doesn't the exhaust have two sensors? O2 and O2 temp. Currently I am running powerfc and the O2 temp is not connected. Still runs fine but I am not sure about with stock ecu?

Yeah there is an O2 sensor before the CAT and a Temp sensor after the CAT.
I'm just having the CAT removed as it would be clogged. The exhaust Temp sensor is right, the system is running too hot because of the clogged CAT. I could remove the sensor but no point, as it's doing the right job.
Should mention it's currently a dedicated track car so no need for the CAT.

I also am running no cat or dog in mine. So not sure if tapping the temp sensor would do anything. Tuner never complained about it not being plugged in.

If your car is running fine I wouldn't bother about having it fitted back in.
For mine I will have it put back as its not costing any extra at the exhaust shop when they make up that section of pipe.
I'm not in rush to get the exhaust done because I wont be running an event till after November. Just good to have that overfuelling sorted now so the car is all perfect again.