Hey guys
My car I think is either off in timing or the belt was pit a tooth or two off

It's a little doggy down low and the mechanic who did the clutch said the same


Now the belt was done 8 years ago going by the receipts but since then it's only done 20xxxkms
Should I get the belt done and idler pulleys?
Or not worry its not making any noises or slipping
It's a gen toyota belt

Also how difficult is it to fix if it is a tooth off?
I don't want to pay labour it's something I might do myself

Should I check the timing via a t light?

Also anyone who's willing and has done it before to teach me or help me do the belt at there place

There's a case or two of beer in it or 100$ cash for your time :)

Any help would be appreciated :)

Btw it's a 1992 8th month Aus delivered sw20

Most people here will probably tell you to drop the motor but it's really not that hard with it still in the car.
 
It's just a matter of ripping the covers etc off, loosening the belt, then correct the timing.
 
If the belt is 8 years old I'd just replace it.

Changing it requires a lot more effort than just adjusting it.

Check ign timing first. The dizzy should sit halfway in its adjustment slots and fire 10deg btdc with timing locked. If its not and you have to turn the dizzy to either limit of its adjustment, then the belt is not on right.

Ok great thanks guys

Ill be checking the base timing this weekend
Now I read you must put it into a base timing mode? Via bridging two terminals
Ill do some research but does anyone have a link or can elaborate a bit on this

Also anyone know a good cheap mechanic
Who will do the labour of the timing belt? There's not many mechanics in Newcastle who have even seen an mr2
So there labour prices are a joke
Engine out etc

Connect terminals te1 and e1 in the diag box next to the map sensor. On the firewall, timing belt end.

Same process as checking error codes.

Ethan
Bridge terminals TE1 & E1 with a bent paperclip or something on the DIAGNOSTIC port so the timing doesn't jump around when you're checking it. I think you should see the Check Engine light flashing once you do this. Also, to make things much easier to see with the TL, grab a white paint marker pen and locate the notch on the crank pulley and put a bit of paint on it.
10 degrees Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC) is stock setting. I set mine ~12 deg for a bit more punch when using 100 octane but thats up to you.

Ok sweet as

Now dayco kit or a gates kit,

Genuine pump or gates pump

How long are you planning to keep it na? Ie:are you going to go back to a turbo once your on your full lic?

Nah decided its silly spending money on a turbo
Yeah there fun
But I can have just as much fun in
A midly modded Na if not more
Until I can do a 1.12 at Wakefield on a basically stock engine
No point touching it.
It's reliable it sounds tuff
And I have heaps of fun.

So probably keep it a while just put a new exedy HD clutch in it