2013/10/13 13:21:33
Gatesys SW20
Guys I've been for the last two weekends trying to replace my fuel filter
I've got the bottom bolt cracked easily the top one looks to be a bit rounded off so I got a 17mm crows foot
It bites hard into the bolt but I can't crack it, it's that tight and I can't get any decent leverage where the filter is so I wedged a spanner against the firewall so the filter won't turn in the holder
And still nothing?
I am turning it counterclockwise I'm pretty certain it's not a reverse thread bolt

I'm going to get some releasing stuff to soak it in
But anyone else have any ideas?
I've got a new bolt to go into fr Toyota once I get it out
I don't want pull the line out and drill it out as it's more of pita then I want to spend on the damn filter

Also
I had the timing belt changed and it's at 9dehrees ignition timing/base timing

Now the last mr2 I had was set to 13 degrees and was really responsive
Would that be ok because I've read they don't tend to start pinging until 15 degrees
If I wanted the extra little low ranger and mid could I safely advance it to 13
2013/10/13 14:08:23
artymr2
Have you tried loading up the bolt and hitting the end of spanner with a hammer to crack it, it often works much better than just applying pressure trying to unbolt it.  Correct, it is a normal thread.
 
Re timing, you can advance it a bit ok if you run higher octane fuel.  Just keep a good ear out for any pinging and back of if you hear it.
 
Cheers
2013/10/14 10:24:18
Reddtarga
Normally these banjo bolts are very tight, and you need a 19mm open-end spanner underneath, and a 17mm for the top.
Align the spanners so that you can squeeze them together with both hands first to undo, then to tighten again later. You get a lot more leverage that way.
(You can use the same technique when adjusting track rod lock-nuts).
 
2013/10/14 12:36:14
zmit
^ second that trick. It's incredibly useful.
2013/10/14 12:44:35
Gatesys SW20
i will give that a go mate!! Cheers!
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