Does anyone have recommended wheel alignment specs for a stock 97 Bathurst MR2?
I'm concerned that the local guys might just use some generic values, so i'm hoping someone here might have the correct info before i take the car in.
 
Cheers
Rick

Take a look at this thread Rick.  
 
http://www.imoc.co.uk/for...t=25719&highlight=

Thanks mister2
 
I had looked at that, but i was hoping for some local feedback from people who'd had an alignment done recently.
 

Hi Rick,
I have had two wheel alignments done when I have had tyres fitted to my '96 SW20.
The first time the tyre shop looked at their alignment machine & advised that it had the values required in the Data Base of the machine.
They provided me with a printout report, which I reckon showed the required values, as well as actual before & after
I'll hunt it out when I get home & will scan & send a copy.
Second, most recent tyre shop gave me nothing but a bill, & when I asked, said they don't give a report.
Probably won't use them again.

Front: 0mm-2mm toe out
Rear: 0-2mm toe in
 
Make sure the caster is equal for both sides with the more the merrier on the front and zero on the rear.
 
Standard ride height is a good place to stay as you will not effect the roll centres.
 
I found more camber on the rear than the front would cause the car to 'push/understeer' on initial entry to a corner. 
 
Make sure the tyre pressures are perfect before the wheel alignment. Its pretty important for getting the right reading.
 
If the car is too lively in the rear, disconnect the rear swaybar. This will settle it right down. If there is way too much understeer, disconnect the front bar instead of the rear.
 
 

since this is for a "stock" car that front setup is awesome for turn in, but is too darty and high wearing for a stock road car Steve.
 
I would be more inclined to run toe in on the front for a road car as per factory along with the rear toe in as you mentioned. 
 
Do not go stupid with the cambers front and rear (1.5 front, 1.0 rear) and your castor is not adjustable in a late model such as yours (all cars have castor differences side to side slightly to aid in driving straight down the road due to the camber built into roads for drainage)
 
The rear should not be touched in regards to the trailing arms also, leave it stock.
 
So in summary what works great on a stock car is:-
 
Front:- 1.5 neg camber, 1-2mm toe in
Rear:- 1.0 neg camber, 1-1.5mm toe in 
 
 

Hi Rick,
This is the first time I have attached a file.
I hope it can be read o.k.
If necessary PM with your E-Mail address & I will pdf & send a copy.

kameleon
since this is for a "stock" car that front setup is awesome for turn in, but is too darty and high wearing for a stock road car Steve.
 
I would be more inclined to run toe in on the front for a road car as per factory along with the rear toe in as you mentioned. 
 
Do not go stupid with the cambers front and rear (1.5 front, 1.0 rear) and your castor is not adjustable in a late model such as yours (all cars have castor differences side to side slightly to aid in driving straight down the road due to the camber built into roads for drainage)
 
The rear should not be touched in regards to the trailing arms also, leave it stock.
 
So in summary what works great on a stock car is:-
 
Front:- 1.5 neg camber, 1-2mm toe in
Rear:- 1.0 neg camber, 1-1.5mm toe in 
 
 

Point taken, I really have no idea on day to day driving of these cars! Just trying to help out.

I think alot of us are in that boat Steve haha

Thanks everyone.
This is the sort of feedback i was hoping for.
Between you all i was sure I'd end up with great info :-)