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  • My widebody sw20 build thread (p.27)
2015/01/28 21:00:04
kameleon
Dude.......
2015/01/31 18:40:45
Admin
I think you need to concentrate on getting it going otherwise there will always be a new toy to tempt you and you'll never finish 🏁 😃


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2015/01/31 19:00:45
B24
Very true, just get it going. Fit some brakes, throw in the running gear and drive. We want to see it running this year!!
2015/01/31 19:04:25
Admin
WIDEMR
While i love electrics and cars, i absolutely hate electric cars! 



A mate of mine has a Holden (Chevrolet) Volt and it's pretty good!
I drove it and it is much better than I expected.
2015/01/31 22:19:51
5SGTE
Brendo you're copping some heat here... lol
2015/02/01 00:48:11
-Totenkopf-
I've only been telling him this for the last 5 years... Good luck getting the point through to him :)
2015/02/01 15:28:12
WIDEMR
You all volunteering to come over and help me?
 
I would say Totenkopf is flying down to help me soon, altho i doubt it, more like just give me crap for everything ive done, make me re do everything ha ha ha, or tell me how ive wasted money and show me what open cockpit carbon monocoque i could have bought
 
Come on guys..... im not trying to build a stock car, i had one remember, and you can hardly say i haven't done anything in the last few years, i think its actually coming together ok.
 
Well its already at the point of no return, nothing factory left on the car, so i dont see a point wasting alot of time and money that i dont have to buy parts, temporary get it all working (wiring, plumbing, hardware ect) just to drive it, for how long? then remove it all, re do all the stuff i just did to then put in the other parts i have or need to buy.
 
Putting an engine in isnt that big of a deal, I have alot of the engine already, just need to buy parts for the head and get the head built, then assemble the block, but i suppose its all the million little things that add up to cost much more then the 'long block' ie exhausts, plumbing, wiring, sensors ect, but still not much is needed (money and effort from me to get things organized) to have a long block built and put in the car, then it would look like the cars almost finished, nearly ready to race, but the engine is the last thing i will be doing, dont want to have a brand new built motor just sitting around for ages, rather it go in fresh when almost ready to start up.
 
You all know that i get as much (or more?) out of the car buying parts and building it, the knowledge learnt from it ect then i would driving it.
2015/02/01 15:54:48
Highlander
Your car, your money, your project and yours to do what you want with it when you want. Enjoy the journey. Haven't seen many posts from you telling others what to do with their projects unless it has been is response to requests for information or assistance. Build might be seen by some as overkill but no more in my opinion in spending money on highly modified street cars. Followed a Gallardo from Bowral to Sydney in my old Holden One Tonner and try as he may, he just couldn't get away from me. We both arrived at the airport at the same time. Would be nice to see your cat at MTC2016 though even on a trailer without an engine. Definitely a candidate for a lot of oohs and aahs.
2015/02/01 16:18:46
WIDEMR
Been asked to post some more wiring pics, thought i would post these, show a little that goes into it.
 
Most way through this connector, wire is Raychem Spec 55, Deutsch Autosport connector, this one has 4x #16 contacts (up to 20A) and 8x #20 contacts (7.5A). Crimped with military / aviation spec DMC AFM8 / AF8 crimp tools with correct positioner to suit each pin/socket. The loops are called service loops, they act as strain relief, so no tension is kept on the crimp on the contact, and also in case a contact does need to be replaced, theres a bit of length of wire to re crimp.
The wire behind the connector is then wrapped with Kapton tape (that gold tape you can see a tiny bit of there, its basically a high heat proof tape, this is to stop any glue / resin from the sealed molded boot that goes on from getting on the wires, also protects the wire from some of the heat needed for the molded boot, so if a repair is needed the molded boot can be cut off and the tape removed then it will look like new and easy to work on.

 
 
The looms are made up by twisting the wires in a technique called concentric twisting, were there may be multiple layers, each layer alternates direction, as you can see here, the core is the 4x thick #16 wires, then around it is the smaller 8x #20 / #22 wires, 'filler wires' may be required to fill in that low spot, to end up with a smooth lay, in this case i ended up with a couple filler wires and a couple extra wires were that came along this section to a join that will be in the connectors molded boot, so theres not a big lumpy join in the loom.

 
 
As you can see here the end result is a smooth finish, it may then be bound with some Kevlar string, then covered with Raychem DR25 heatshrink. The end result is a very smooth, thin, very very flexible loom that is totally sealed from water, fuel, oil, being aviation derived even de-icing fluid, avgas, you name it.

 
 
Pretty much finished, now does on the heat shrink then the sealed molded boot

 
 
End result. This is the loom inside my boot.

 
 
Another example, this is from my Motec PDM, powers the whole car, the 3 big connector looms come together then joins up into 1 loom.

 
 
Installed in the car. 

2015/02/01 16:26:06
WIDEMR
Another loom, this one runs through the engine bay, is covered with Raychem DR25 heatshrink then some Raychem HFT5000 fabric (polyolefin and polyester) heatshrink for extra heat/abrasion resistance. 

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