Oh, while im thinking of it, seeing as your running a pedal box and you are going to run some fairly serious brakes, to help with setting up your brake bias quicker, pick up some honeywell 2000psi sensors and run them into the dash one for each brake circuit. That way you can have an actual reading for the pressures to work out bias, and also you can keep tabs on whether the bias stays consistant whilst driving, as the balance bars have a habit of sliding around slightly while driving, and can shift the bias. Reason I recommend running into the dash as you can set up a page with front and rear, add a maths channel for a bias, and it makes it easier to make educated adjustments, instead of working out by the number of turns on the bias bar.

Already ahead of ya 

 
Yeah ill be running front and rear brake pressure, aswell as clutch (fluid) pressure as well and all into the dash, so yeah a sensor per master cyl.
As you said this will be for setup, if i pull the box out and take the masters off, can be a pain to set up the same bias, so will help with this, also to see not only when i brake into a corner, but how much.
 
I like your idea of a maths channel to show bias, as i cant really fit a rotary pot on the bias adjuster knob due to were i put it and not much room to put a pot on each side of the balance bar, 
 
Been thinking if its worth adding a pot to the pedal itself, log the actual pedal position, to compare to fluid pressure, not sure if its necessary or not.
 

Thanks for the pictures Brendan. That's what I had in mind when I install my ECU.
 
The idea of logging brake bias sounds like a good idea but not sure of its all (clutch sensor)really necessary. Being able to cross reference your tyre pressure rate of pressure, brake bias and tyre temps would be quite useful for running in the 300km races (which I hope you will enter when its ready).
 
 
 

Yeah tyre pressure and maybe temp is something i want to do, but to be able to log it continuously, ie not just take readings in the pits, gets expensive, as each wheel needs a sensor/transmitter, if you have 2 sets of wheels at the track thats 8 sensors, plus the antennas, main control unit ect, prices for a good motorsport grade unit, like the set made by BF1 systems, starts bit under $3k but more around $7k+ for it all, so yeah adds up quick, something i can add many years down the track if i need to, but not high on my list, but in building the wiring now, i have allowed for this, well i have a spare separate CAN and power connector for it or other future devices.

Been trying to get a few things done on the car, going to try and get it to the big 30th Anniversary of the MR2 show next month (http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=106794) altho with no roof, windscreen, qtr windows  or doors ect it may be limited to the weather, need to get the steering column back in so it can be moved ect.
 
If i can get my car there, (oh yeah also no brakes, motor, wiring, fuel tank ect) then surly no one will have any excuse why they cant make it!

WIDEMR
Yeah tyre pressure and maybe temp is something i want to do, but to be able to log it continuously, ie not just take readings in the pits, gets expensive, as each wheel needs a sensor/transmitter, if you have 2 sets of wheels at the track thats 8 sensors, plus the antennas, main control unit ect, prices for a good motorsport grade unit, like the set made by BF1 systems, starts bit under $3k but more around $7k+ for it all, so yeah adds up quick, something i can add many years down the track if i need to, but not high on my list, but in building the wiring now, i have allowed for this, well i have a spare separate CAN and power connector for it or other future devices.

No matter, it at least look very cool! I see there is a M130 available which is about the same price as the Haltech Elite. This is a game changer for a lot of applications. It has croseed my mind to make the change but chances are, I will stick with the current set up.
Great to see you are making your way to the MR2 30th. It will be great to see your car there but doubt mine will be due to its current state being less than yours right now!
Hopefully it will be running for the MTC 2016

with the M130 you would also have to get the GPA or GPR firmware package so theres a bit of money also.

I will not be going with the Motec. Will be sticking with my current set up then decide on a ECU in the next few months.

Ok cool. Well if any of its setup by your track day next year, ill help with what i can.
 
Ok finally had some motivation and spare time, so have been doing a few things on the car.
 
I put on the carbon fiber targa tops i got of Admin ages ago, and today i had a windscreen installed

 
 
Made up a new steering wheel, I had the switch plate drawn up and had it CNC laser cut up (if anyone is intrested in one, send me a PM) then anodized, dropped the steering wheel at the engravers to get all the button labels laser etched onto the wheel, ordered all the Apem waterproof buttons and wired it all up.

 
 
Here you can see the red button shrouds i used for the 2 buttons i dont want to bump by accident

 
 
All wired up, Raychem wire, DR25 shrink and molded boots, all sealed up, also got a Krontec quick release and spacer (spacer was needed for the wiring)

 
 
Krontec quick release with Deutsch Autosport 22 pin connector. 

 
 
Heres the center switch panel thats in front of the shifter that i also drew up and had laser cut up, anodized and writing laser etched. It has the inside switch for the fire extinguisher, main battery isolator switch which is a mil spec / aviation switch, cant be bumped, to switch you have to pull the lever out a tiny bit then toggle up or down, also 9 position switches for boost and traction maps and then the Motec CAN keypad.

 
 
Very simple bracket, nice and light. Using all factory mounting holes.

 
 
Good overview shot. On the left of the dash you can see the 2 connectors for the laptop, ones for the data logger/dash, the other is Motec CAN1 for programming ecu, PDM, LTC ect.

 
 
Also got a Motec SKM

 
 
A SLM, as i realy need the dash were it is to see it, i can see the screen great through the steering wheel when straight, but when turning a fair bit, cant see the lights, so ill have the SLM on the dash above the wheel and set it to mimic the ones on the dash or just shift lights and 1 led for warnings, dunno yet.

 
 
And the Racegrade 20hz GPS as i was talking about.

Impressive is an understatement.....