B24
Very nice. Can you change the valving to balance out the way it lifts? Certainly something is a little out.
It looks like the standard brakes still on the car. When and what are you changing too? 

Yeah will look at few things to reduce pressure to front on going up and reduce rear on down, but this all adds weight and will slow the jacks down for normal lifting, so prob wont, like i said i doubt ill double lift much.
 
And i have NO brakes on the car at the moment! 
I will be (at this stage) running some Performance Friction monoblocks (simular to those you linked but diff) and floating rotors. 
All comes down to time and money, calipers, brackets, rotors, custom hats ect

Yes, there is a money involved but the time is the killer. You spend so much time planning and prep.
Have you thought of running upper and lower A link suspension? I know this debate comes up every now and then and there are different opinions on this, but is it something you would like to do?
At one stage, I was looking at buying the spares from a sports sedan which had everything needed. Uprights/hubs, links, spare rose joints, brakes and lines. The cost was about $3500 which is a very good price for what you get.
Also looked at Supra conversion (as done in GT300), S2000 conversion and FD RX7 conversion.
Mark Loyd pointed out the use of motorbike coilovers is a cheap way to set the car up with two way adjustable coilovers. Fully rebuild able and some other benefits.
We also discussed a tubular subframe for the front and rear which can be bolted to the chassis rails. With the system, the discussion was to build a home made unit and have it operating, then take it to a specialist to fabricate a A grade unit from the template and car provided. Links can be made at little cost and the subframe too once a template is made.
A speedway rack would be used as they are cheap, light and proven.
 
Do you have more pic's on the wiring? Have you looked at making your own programmable circuit breaker/relay unit?
Have you thought of running a V6 or committed to the turbo? Turbo will add a lot of weight and technicalities to the car. After my experience, I doubt I would do it again.
Are you looking at dry sump? Tank up front?
 
 

Steve, was nice to have a chat today with you.
 
As discussed im running a Racepak Smartwire PDM (power distribution module) which is solid state and fully programmable and sees all my sensors and data from my Racepak data logger, plus i can log stuff from the Smartwire like log current draw of fuel pump ect.
 
As for some more pics of my wiring, i haven't had the time to finish off my main cabin loom, ill take pics of it onces done, but bellow is a pic of 1 branch of the cabin loom, just to show you the work that goes into it, its just very time consuming! (pic shows small, click on it to see full size) 

 
Other wiring stuff ive been organizing are few new sensors.
Bosch Motorsport liquid pressure sensors (fuel, oil, coolant ect) and MAP sensors

 
Bosch Motorsport liquid temp sensors (coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil ect)

 
Bosch OEM sensor for the radiator, only cause i already had a M12 bung welded in and they dont do a Motorsport series with M12 thread. I then wired in the wiring, potted the back of the sensor and fitted with Autosport connector.

 
Put some connectors on my fans

 
These are the blower fans i spoke to you about. (I will only have 2 in the car) One is for the cabin, blows air towards the driver and splits off and blows down to the PDM ect and the other is helmet air.

I am going to have to speak to Kaye about getting some kids out of you... autosport connectors on fans is outlandish, you need settling down :)  I guess with the 0-5V analogue output you are going to loose a fair bit of resolution on the turbo speed, but I guess near enough is good enough, could probably have it to within 20k RPM and still be OK.

Yes, it was good to have a chat today.
I dismantled the isolator switch yesterday. This was an interesting find as I thought the switch had a relay inside but it did not. It had a switch which works as a kill switch for the ignition and fuel pump and in the off position, it provides power to the ECU for memory or the likes. I have heard of these failing then people throwing these out when this happens. After discovering how they work, never throw these out as they are an easy fix.  Are you running this (CAMS/FIA) isolator switch?
The wiring look excellent. It may take time to do but it would be just as slow as the traditional/basic wiring systems. You also do not have the sort out relays/fuse/circuit breaker system so you do save time there. You are also saving a lot of mucking around with securing reliability and fitting with this system so you are in a good position. Another point is the far less wiring you will need compared to a standard unit.
It would be great to see you car and wiring at the MR2 trackday in 2014. After looking at mine then looking at yours, I know which way to go next time!
The only issue would be cost for the set up you have. I guess with all the wiring,connectors, power unit, dash it would be close to 5k in part, but it would never fail and would save your engine which is a huge gain. As an example, it can cost 5k to enter and run a car in the Wakefield or Winton 300, the time in prep is 100+ hours, 4 people minimum at the track for the three days and more incidentals. We had a wiring failure on three occasions over the weekend directly related to heat and installation. It can easily cost you a race and waste a lot of time. Even if its a trackday 200km away, a Hillclimb or the likes, I'm sure the wiring investment can be justiflied. Well done to you mate and hope to see it in Jan.
 

As Tot said, make some babies!
 

What is this? Some sort of intervention? I dont see James with kids! When are you marring Rikki James?
 
Steve, I couldn't agree more with you about your comments on wiring and how spending money now can save you money.
 
I have been buying alot of spares of everything that could stop the motor from running or me driving, things that can be changed out at the track (so not spare engine and gearbox ect, im not that rich or have a transporter) but things like spare sensors, fuel pumps, injectors, seals ect.
I wouldn't bring them necessary to every event, most will be day track days ect, by the time something failed and i fixed it prob wouldn't get another run anyway, but for interstate events exp several day events like WTAC or your MR2 trackday prob worth it, as like you say, the money spent in going to the track (track fees, accommodation, petrol, time off work ect) for somthign small to fail fine, day lost, cant drive, but for intermittent faults and being track only car, it means spending all that money again and days off work to see if the fault is fixed!
Have a fuel issue, dont know what it is, fine change out the sensors (maybe thats all it is), fuel pump, filter, injector, coils whatever, quite quick to do, if problem has gone, can bench test each part later.
Other reason is alot of parts may be custom or from overseas, can take months to get new parts. 

Cartek certainly do have some great gear on their site. 
 
The problem with our cars is the in tank fuel pump which takes a lot of time to fix. There was talk of running external pumps for primary and secondary for this reason of access. Right now I have to remove the tank (as in tonight/tomorrow) which is a PITA. Having external units would be quite a boon or do what Admin has done, access hole in the cabin.
 
I read that thermo fans are good for 50kmh. Is this correct? Can you get faster units? Just asking for IC application.
  

Honestly, the fuel tank isn't that painful a job.  Certainly its not 5 minutes but I've done it off a jack in around 30-45 mins, the first time is always $*(!ing hard.  All the hose clamps aren't pointing the right way, everything is glued on.  After the first time though if you give all the hoses a lube up and orientate the clamps in a 'smart' manner so they are easy to get to its really not that painful.
 
I am somewhat concerned about how your jack setup is going to weight with engine and all the gear in the back.  I used to lift the MR2 from under the mount for the castor rod.  I wouldn't have felt too comfortable lifting anywhere further forward..  The 'front lifting first' issue will be worse with the engine in and I also don't think it'll be too stable doing the second lift, given the extra weight transfer of the car being on a killer angle, you may just find some serious issues.  The engine isn't a neglible weight.  Get two ~100kg blokes to sit in the boot with there arse on the firewall between boot and engine bay, this will likely replicate close to the additional weight of the donk slightly further forward.

I just don't enjoy the job. Some things you like, some things you do not. Still, its all disconnected and will be removed after work today.
The point about the air jacks is a very good point and one I was also thinking of.