it was a hillclimb track so much like a short cane on some cough street cough roads.

good work brendan
hope she gets back on the road soon
i dont think many cars went past 3rd gear at all in the hill climb
sweetpete - have a look at the track on google maps you will see what these guys are all talking about
cheers

roll cage looking good brendan, glad to see you working on it again after that tragic crash!

B24: Thanks :) Seeing pics of yours help with some idea. Strut tower wise just strut braces atm, didnt run cage to front towers or weld strong stays or bars as im not plannting on respraying under the front bonnet or engine bay, when i do ill seam weld and have welded stays and thicker plates, same for rest of car havent seam weled anything, only few bits inside cabbin were i am respraying.

Not sure were you mean with the enigne mount stays, cant run out to car to have a look, i assume you mean from low on the main hoop to the rear firewall near the fuel tunnel?

Sweeetpete: Fronts were Toyo T1Rs 225's and rears were Kuhmo KU36 275's, the front was fine, the rear was loose due to no heat.

i think he means the lh gearbox mount area?

The stays for the rear mount just in front of the gearbox mount infront of the strut tower on the left of the car and infront of the engine mount on the right of the car. Both finish via a hole cut oversize by 10mm, though the firewall, mounting opposite the side intrusion bar. These bars will angle toward the centre of the car to help with any flex/movement of the engine caused by hard corning. The energy in transferred into the cage which transfers it to the chassis rails. So the energy is not lost or used to unsettle the car.
With the front stays, they are finished under the dash, through the 'gutter' I guess you would call it( and a total pain to fit correctly..),then into the strut tower directly opposite the strut. Infact this is a total pain doing this job unless you sandblast the area as the glue is toxic, no room to work, very hard to prep correctly and balls of molten metal which cannot stick,'scar you'...
But if you can jump through all the hoops it can be done with no evidence that they are infact fitted to the car. The other option is to fit the 'bolt on' braces to the inner front gaurd which some people use. Im sure kam or evo will be able to enlighten us regarding these bolt ons.
Or you can seam weld the inner guard the fill with two pac high density foam which is just as good. Its light and very strong. Infact after the cage is fitted you could go crazy with the high density foam so its as stiff as a hardwood door!!

b24 is this what you meant by linking to the engine mount areas?

that is perfect

i have just realised that that is the G.ludwig MR2, not your car, yes that is exactly what you want.

Damn trav, you found the sneak pics of my car! i wish

Yeah cage to rear strut towers would have been easy if i had motor out and respraying engine bay.

Im sure, if it had big re-enforcing plates around the tower, it will add alot of strength to the strut tower and chassis, also the back stays going to the chassis in the pic, rather then the back window area like mine and B24, but wount help in roll over, stop motor from coming into cabin in a huge rear end or stop suspension being riped out hitting a curb, so no huge advantage.