Reddtarga
I believe the diameter of the pre '92 bars are 18 mm F/R, while the post '92 ones are 19 mm F/R.
You need the right ones, and 19 mm will be too large in your case.

Thanks for confirming Reddtarga. Hopefully the seller on Amazon can switch the swaybar bushings in the kit to 18mm.  

Phiz
 and theres about to be a group buy from them.

 I'm in. Who is organising the group buy ?

The group buy is in the thread named 'Ordering Mr2 parts' but its taking a while.. Are you from Sydney?
We could probably just arrange one for ourselves for the prothane suspension bushings kit if you're keen..

Hi SW20TT,  yes I'm at Berowra. Have been slowly working on a 91 Turbo with my son, who just passed his test yesterday so the car is all mine for the next 3 years - yay! anyway recently I noticed steering wheel shake under brakes, sometimes a little less, not under brakes, and when I looked at rotors, one had a little runout. At the same time I had been wondering that steering seemed a little vague. Then 2 days ago, I noticed while my son was braking down a hill that the shake was quite violent, so I'm suspecting more than just disk runout. Also the wheel shakes a little on the m1 and since the tyres were recently replaced and balanced, I think the concrete sections of the M1 have grooves scored into them, to deal with puddling of rain water. So I am suspecting at least 1 control arm bushing to be root cause of all the above ?? Maybe other things contributing also.
 This morning with the car off the ground, we checked the ball joints, using a length of timber and there was no movement, which surprised me. I am still learning how to check all the suspension & steering components. 
 So this morning I rang a friend who runs a 4x wheel drive business and asked if his guys could get the car up on the hoist and test everything - and let me know what I need to replace. It's booked in for May1. If I need several bushings then I might do the lot and I will get back to you to see about saving some $$.

Steering shake under braking or otherwise is a real PITA.
 
Youve checked the ball joints.
Other things to check on the front:
Tie rod ends, inner and outer. Wheel bearings. Uneven rotor wear. Hub runout, and of course wheel alignment.
 
If aftermarket wheels are fitted, hub rings are needed to center the wheel on the hub spigot as well as for safety. Plastic ones distort with the brake heat so metal ones are best. (Sometimes, without them you'll never get rid of wheel shake).
 
A clock gauge with magnetic base is a good investment to check hub runout, as well as rotor runout. I found that even brand new rotors can still have runout, but this can often be fixed or reduced by indexing. (swapping their position on the wheel studs). You can even index the wheels this way too if you are that keen.
 
Just one more thing with alloy wheels; always tighten the wheel studs using a torque wrench with a 'star' tightening sequence. I use about 80 ft/lb
 
Good luck with it.

Thanks RT, you have given me food for thought. The car came with 4  17x8" wheels, one of which needed straightening. They seem to fit on the hub lip ok, but I don't know just how snug that fitting needs to be.
Either way I should probably get a dial gauge and check wheel, rotors and hubs as you suggest.
Last night my son and I pushed and pulled on the front wheels at full lock to see if there was movement in the control arms and they seemed good, but perhaps our method is not great. This morning I heard something rubbing as I pulled up. Sounded like a disc rubbing on a high spot, with or without brakes applied., but definitely in frequency with wheel rotation. 
 thinking, thinking,...... 
 

Re the wrong sized wheels, I intend to replace them with better sized wheels at some stage, maybe that stage needs to be now, if they are the problem... My Camry wheels definitely fit the lip on the hub, tighter than these MR2 wheels

Better off knocking them all out of the park at once, rather than fixing something, then wearing it away whilst you fix other stuff. Good luck man i've been looking for good sized 16's for a while now, don't come across anything under the 1.5k mark for something nice/fancy. The Stud pattern kills us.

Hi Phiz,
I thought the Toyota stud pattern was relatively common... oh well, something else to deal with...
Is there a problem buying wheels of a style but in different widths (front vs back).?
If so, then maybe 2 people could purchase 4 of the narrower width and 4 of the wider ? but of course 2 people would never agree on the style of the wheel :o)
  I've seen some cars with different wheels front and back....not a good look.
 
 

Our Stud pattern is very common.. for skylines/silvias, however most of them only take 17's/18's. If you look up Rota wheels webiste for example, they only start 5x114.3 at 17's. 
 
No, will make the car feels/behave different depending on weight, track increase/decrease and size difference.
 
It is very common to have R32 gtst front, and R32 GTR rear wheels on a sw20. Suits the guards quite well. the front are 6.5, where as the rear are 8's. Some say that you need a wider back track, however it is to each's opinion. Most of the time it's for looks. (not serious enough for performance)