Mrskylighter
My 2c,
 
I had intercooler heat soak issues a couple of times in my previous SW20 as it went through it's different engine setups.
 
When i had a stock motor with a Greddy T67 hanging off the side running a Power FC, Pump, injectors, exhaust etc I used a Greddy copy intercooler with the metal shroud/plate to seal it to the air vent and a fan shroud with an ATS 8 or 9in fan on the engine side of the intercooler. Also custom heat shielding on the tubular Greddy manifold.
On the dyno it got up to just under 250RWKW but was heat soaking pretty bad. They were letting it cool down for a while and then going again. Eventually the engine broke (3 of 4 pistons) which could be down to the hot intake air and the tuner struggling with this. It was a mad turbo though, came on boost like a maniac. Yep still drove it for a whole with broken piston ring lands.
 
Rebuilt that motor into the last engine the car had with 316RWKW from a GT35R at around 20psi from memory.
I built the intercooler myself which was boot mounted, 700mm x 300mm x 100mm (huge), 2 x 12inch high volume fans, holes cut in the boot floor for the air to escape and modifications to let cold air enter from the wheel wells.
This intercooler never went a few degrees over ambient air temp ever to my knowledge. It was truly an overkill setup.
 
If I had to install an intercooler again on an SW20 with medium sized turbo or larger I would just go with the large cheap water to air cores everyone seems to be using positioned on the side of the engine bay where the air filter is. Super short IC piping and out of the way heat wise. You keep your boot intact and can fit a dedicated fan to cool the engine bay where the intercooler once was.
 
One last thing I would say is, I thought a TD06 running on a stock motor (with ecu) wouldn't get much higher then say 220-230RWKW anyway. DVSTR8 on here has a TD06 on his gen2 and I think it is around 210RWKW.
Maybe people are getting more these days? I haven't been following this sort of thing for like 5 years now so out of date haha

With any luck going a boot mounted IC wont be necessary. If it came to that I'd most certainly go W2A; cutting up my boot doesn't appeal to me all too much haha.
 
Hmm not sure what a TD06 grabs on average on a stock motor. But with just 850 injectors and a ECU it made the 217kw easily on only 17psi. MRC reckons if the temperature was lower he could pull about 10kw more out of it easily enough which is about right with what your saying.

Asimovy did a boot mount initially and MRC found the exact same issues with IAT's when tuning the car. The exhaust just radiates a bunch of heat that the intercooler soaks up even with thermo fans fitted. MRC advised Asimovy to go W2A like RobK's setup. Once installed the IAT's issue went away, keeping it to only ~10'c above ambient and letting the car finally make 210RWKW (Was struggling to do 195 previously).

Deco

Mrskylighter
My 2c,
 
I had intercooler heat soak issues a couple of times in my previous SW20 as it went through it's different engine setups.
 
When i had a stock motor with a Greddy T67 hanging off the side running a Power FC, Pump, injectors, exhaust etc I used a Greddy copy intercooler with the metal shroud/plate to seal it to the air vent and a fan shroud with an ATS 8 or 9in fan on the engine side of the intercooler. Also custom heat shielding on the tubular Greddy manifold.
On the dyno it got up to just under 250RWKW but was heat soaking pretty bad. They were letting it cool down for a while and then going again. Eventually the engine broke (3 of 4 pistons) which could be down to the hot intake air and the tuner struggling with this. It was a mad turbo though, came on boost like a maniac. Yep still drove it for a whole with broken piston ring lands.
 
Rebuilt that motor into the last engine the car had with 316RWKW from a GT35R at around 20psi from memory.
I built the intercooler myself which was boot mounted, 700mm x 300mm x 100mm (huge), 2 x 12inch high volume fans, holes cut in the boot floor for the air to escape and modifications to let cold air enter from the wheel wells.
This intercooler never went a few degrees over ambient air temp ever to my knowledge. It was truly an overkill setup.
 
If I had to install an intercooler again on an SW20 with medium sized turbo or larger I would just go with the large cheap water to air cores everyone seems to be using positioned on the side of the engine bay where the air filter is. Super short IC piping and out of the way heat wise. You keep your boot intact and can fit a dedicated fan to cool the engine bay where the intercooler once was.
 
One last thing I would say is, I thought a TD06 running on a stock motor (with ecu) wouldn't get much higher then say 220-230RWKW anyway. DVSTR8 on here has a TD06 on his gen2 and I think it is around 210RWKW.
Maybe people are getting more these days? I haven't been following this sort of thing for like 5 years now so out of date haha

With any luck going a boot mounted IC wont be necessary. If it came to that I'd most certainly go W2A; cutting up my boot doesn't appeal to me all too much haha.
 
Hmm not sure what a TD06 grabs on average on a stock motor. But with just 850 injectors and a ECU it made the 217kw easily on only 17psi. MRC reckons if the temperature was lower he could pull about 10kw more out of it easily enough which is about right with what your saying.

Do you think it's worth the coin to install a full W2A system for 10RWKW though? You could just improve your A2A with shrouds and fan upgrade and keep the current tune (which would be very reliable no doubt as timing would have been pulled out due to the heat)

Knightrous
Asimovy did a boot mount initially and MRC found the exact same issues with IAT's when tuning the car. The exhaust just radiates a bunch of heat that the intercooler soaks up even with thermo fans fitted. MRC advised Asimovy to go W2A like RobK's setup. Once installed the IAT's issue went away, keeping it to only ~10'c above ambient and letting the car finally make 210RWKW (Was struggling to do 195 previously).

Hmm this is my worry. That even with all the fans; it may only drop the temperature by 10 degrees.

Mrskylighter
Do you think it's worth the coin to install a full W2A system for 10RWKW though? You could just improve your A2A with shrouds and fan upgrade and keep the current tune (which would be very reliable no doubt as timing would have been pulled out due to the heat)

No it wouldnt be worth it at all. But I guess going either W2A or Water/Meth Injection is more about reducing the intake temperature so that the engine is safe and also to reliably maintaining a low intake temperature at my 260kw goal.

Its really all about airflow. I ran a sidemount and had the same issues on a dyno, but at the track on a hot summer's day, it never really went past 25-35 degress above ambient.

I now have a border top mount and on the freeway (haven't tracked it for ages now) its at the 45-55 deg mark in summer, so its now only 15-25 degress above ambient. But if I sit on a dyno, then yes, we're talking major heatsoak issues, because the airflow just isn't enough on the dyno.
 
IF reliability is your goal then yes, W2A/Meth injection will help reduce knock from overly high intake temps. But so will not boosting it like crazy when its already running really hot ;)

Interested to here the outcome. Dropping 40deg = how much hp gain?

Consistent air temps are worth the cost, tho i dont think you need the big 1200hp core.

Going to W2A was the best thing I've done
 

Mrskylighter
 
 
When i had a stock motor with a Greddy T67 hanging off the side running a Power FC, Pump, injectors, exhaust etc I used a Greddy copy intercooler with the metal shroud/plate to seal it to the air vent and a fan shroud with an ATS 8 or 9in fan on the engine side of the intercooler. Also custom heat shielding on the tubular Greddy manifold.
On the dyno it got up to just under 250RWKW but was heat soaking pretty bad. They were letting it cool down for a while and then going again. Eventually the engine broke (3 of 4 pistons) which could be down to the hot intake air and the tuner struggling with this. It was a mad turbo though, came on boost like a maniac. Yep still drove it for a whole with broken piston ring lands.
 
 

With the help of W2A (Frozen boost's type 5 intercooler and Type 100 heat exchanger) this turbo is now making 385rwkw
 

dasic1
Going to W2A was the best thing I've done
 

Mrskylighter
 
 
When i had a stock motor with a Greddy T67 hanging off the side running a Power FC, Pump, injectors, exhaust etc I used a Greddy copy intercooler with the metal shroud/plate to seal it to the air vent and a fan shroud with an ATS 8 or 9in fan on the engine side of the intercooler. Also custom heat shielding on the tubular Greddy manifold.
On the dyno it got up to just under 250RWKW but was heat soaking pretty bad. They were letting it cool down for a while and then going again. Eventually the engine broke (3 of 4 pistons) which could be down to the hot intake air and the tuner struggling with this. It was a mad turbo though, came on boost like a maniac. Yep still drove it for a whole with broken piston ring lands.
 
 

With the help of W2A (Frozen boost's type 5 intercooler and Type 100 heat exchanger) this turbo is now making 385rwkw
 

On a 3sgte? It must come onto boost extremely hard and scare the crap out of passengers haha

Just ace, as an example, dropping iat from 95 to 60c increases the density of the air at 20psi gauge pressure by 10%.

I remember an old autospeed article that claimed every 4c lower intake temp was worth 1%. So 40c lower intake temp in theory is worth around 10%, which lines up with the air density.

But the main thing is consistancy. A car that can keep its intake temps under control, allows a tuner to work out an accurate safety margin. Also intake manifold gaskets last longer, your intake valves, valve stem seals etc all last a lot longer.

But deco, 95c is a massive number. My efr 6258 heats the air up to 135c @ 20psi, but that is with the air temp sensor in the outlet pipe pre intercooler.

dylmrt
Its really all about airflow. I ran a sidemount and had the same issues on a dyno, but at the track on a hot summer's day, it never really went past 25-35 degress above ambient.

I now have a border top mount and on the freeway (haven't tracked it for ages now) its at the 45-55 deg mark in summer, so its now only 15-25 degress above ambient. But if I sit on a dyno, then yes, we're talking major heatsoak issues, because the airflow just isn't enough on the dyno.
 
IF reliability is your goal then yes, W2A/Meth injection will help reduce knock from overly high intake temps. But so will not boosting it like crazy when its already running really hot ;)

 
That's interesting to know. I think I'll take the car for long drive and log what temperatures I'm seeing with proper airflow. Then log the temps again after I add things like engine lid fans etc. 
 

just_ace
Consistent air temps are worth the cost, tho i dont think you need the big 1200hp core.

I didnt think so either. I was looking more towards the 600hp kit (Type 3 core with a Type 1 heat exchanger).
But Mark at MRC doesnt think it will do the job as with Robk's car; before he went for big power had issues with the 600hp kit keeping consistently cool and the 1200hp kit sorted it out. 
 

MCT_MR2
But the main thing is consistancy. A car that can keep its intake temps under control, allows a tuner to work out an accurate safety margin. Also intake manifold gaskets last longer, your intake valves, valve stem seals etc all last a lot longer.

But deco, 95c is a massive number. My efr 6258 heats the air up to 135c @ 20psi, but that is with the air temp sensor in the outlet pipe pre intercooler.

That's it. My temp sensor has been mounted in the throttle body, so the temp the engine is seeing is far from ideal. Its fine for now as the engine has been tuned with this flaw in mind and as long as I don't go abusing it at the same time. In saying that its definitely something I would like sorted out sooner than later.