Yea going to get an OEM one they're $22. Problem is my engine is a Gen 2 but there are 2 thermostats in the catalog, they changed in Nov 1993. I'll probably get the later one seeing as there were gen 2 engines after this period but it is confusing haha, especially when they're rated at the same temperature  

Just take your old one in as reference as they did change size slightly from memory.

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Gen2 and Gen3 thermostats are different sizes. Gen3 is larger in diameter.
Gen3 part number is 90916-03100. Gen2 is 90916-03075.
I took a pic of both but can't find it at the moment.

Damn, wish I saw that before I went out and got them both. I'll change it tomorrow and give the Gen3 one back. You are correct with your numbers there and the fact the Gen3 is larger:

Okay so update, the new radiator is in!

 
The hardest part was probably getting the hoses on but once you took off the cover in the frunk it was much easier to maneuver the hoses off

 
I then drove it around the block and it got quite hot because there was still air in the system, the radiator has a plug not a tap so I couldn't fit a hose to that bleed point, instead I drove it around the block,waited for it to cool, topped up the coolant then rinse and repeat a few times till I could drive it back from the workshop I had for the day. I will have to progressively keep filling the coolant for the next week more than likely. 
 
I was going to keep the old radiator but once I saw it I thought there's no real point given the state of it. 

 
NEW PROBLEM!
On the way home it ran cooler than normal which is good but pulling into the driveway the clutch wouldn't come all the way back up :( it would still engage but it couldn't come up on its own. This is a real pain as I replaced the master and slave only 12 months ago. I'm not entirely sure what to do. I'll likely take it to a shop and ask them to vacuum bleed the clutch as I can't think what else it could be. I checked the firewall and there are no apparent leaks, nor are there any from the clutch line at the back. 
 
 

Screw the hose into the plug hole to bleed air out of the top of the radiator, that's what I do.

If I do that then when I remove the hose air would just rush straight back in and I'm back at square 1? 

It'll be fine. You'll actually find air won't go in but coolant will come out, just be quick it won't be too much.

in terms of the radiator I took out the plug and when it spewed out coolant I quickly put the plug back in and have been topping the coolant up each day. It maintains a nice cool temp so that problem is solved.
 
The clutch however is a terrible problem. It won't bleed with a one way valve because there is always air in the pipe attached to the bleed screw and the same happens when I put a hand vac bleeder on. Despite building 60inHg in vacuum pressure it would not  suck fluid, it was as if air was getting in somewhere because the air didn't stop. Ended up just reverse bleeding it with a syringe and that was the best we got it. 
 
The problem is still there where the pedal go's to the floor (but not all the way because I can still engage the clutch) and I need to pull it back up. I tried changing the clevice and push rod on the master but even after setting it to have max resting pressure the problem still exists. Sometimes I can driver for 30min and it won't happen. Most mechanics and friends seem convinced its a faulty master :/

Whilst waiting for my new clutch master cylinder to arrive I noticed Rob did the quad tail light upgrade and since I had all the stuff at home I thought I might as well do the same. However, I'm nowhere near as good as Rob when it comes to electrics and as a result it didn't work. One side had a dodgey socket that I fixed and I have accidentally wired the other side up in reverse.