Yep the mortified look on my face when they got it on the hoist was well justified. You can't really see the replacement metal because its inside the chassis hole but we managed to cut the bar and weld the thread points onto it then weld the bar inside. Such an awesome job considering the problem. Car feels so much better now and sounds like it should. Can't thank my mech enough for doing it on such short notice. 

Okay back to the Electronic Boost Controller. Because I'm time poor, a local fabricator I trust installed it for me and tuned it in on his dyno. I can honestly say this is the best mod I've ever installed. Immediately fixed my boost issues and boost comes on so much harder and stronger now. The Dyno reveals that I've gained 30Kw since my last run early this year but the biggest change is the power curve, now boost comes on earlier and harder. I have presets in the controller for 10psi, 12psi and 13psi but installer said just to run 13psi because its still reading perfectly safe and not going too lean or rich. 

 
I was left to placing the controller and I rather poorly jammed it in the ash tray slot with some foam I had lying around. I'll get some 3D printed parts at a later stage. 
 

 
I haven't yet had the opportunity to really test it because it was raining today and lots of idiot drivers as a result. So once I can put some load on the car I'll report back how it feels from something other than a brief drive home and give a better overview. 

Did have one issue on the way home where I might have accidentally pressed something but whenever I went to make boost I'd hit boost cut and a CEL would appear. Pulled over made sure the program was correct on the EBC and it was fine after that. If anyone has an idea about it, I'd love to hear it. I suspect I may have just selected a pre-set that hadn't been mapped into the controller *Shrugs*

In any event I'm very happy with the mod and the gains I've made on the car. Feels like a turbo car should now. 

Good to see it made a difference for you, I really should get the EBC I have sitting in my parts tub installed and mapped as well.
Who did you use to install and map yours?

Yea made a massive difference I would highly recommend one. I got Nitro Dann in heatherbrae to tune it in, he put it on the dyno and made 3 maps for me. He recommended just running 13psi all day every day

One of the first mods I plan on doing is an EBC as well. Just hoping to crank up the horsies while also letting me manage how much boost I'm actually running also

Well sadly I found out today its not all fun and games with the stock ECU, a few times this morning while only hitting 7psi I got boost cut and car wouldn't let me build any boost until I pulled over and turned the engine off. The ECU is not used to all this extra air and is seeing it as running too lean probably causing it to issue a boost cut. The only real solution is to go new ECU which will be an after christmas thing.
 
However coming home from Toyotafest I got up to 12psi and it was just fine. I suspect that if I hold it at 12psi it would boost cut but worked fine on the way home,very weird. Toyotafest pics to come. 

Matts_SW20
Well sadly I found out today its not all fun and games with the stock ECU, a few times this morning while only hitting 7psi I got boost cut and car wouldn't let me build any boost until I pulled over and turned the engine off. The ECU is not used to all this extra air and is seeing it as running too lean probably causing it to issue a boost cut. The only real solution is to go new ECU which will be an after christmas thing.
 
However coming home from Toyotafest I got up to 12psi and it was just fine. I suspect that if I hold it at 12psi it would boost cut but worked fine on the way home,very weird. Toyotafest pics to come. 

Maybe I'm not understanding the situation very well, but I'm surprised it's running lean.. didn't the tuner say the AFR was solid?

I'm not fully understanding it all either. When the tuner put it on his dyno it went reliably fine on 13psi with no boost cut and predictable AFR. It went a bit leaner the closer it went to redline which is what it's meant to do. He was surprised when I told him about the issues. It seems to be intermittent which is odd. 
 
tl;dr it read fine on dyno but now boost cut issues. Tuner said to dial down duty cycle till it stops and save for an ECU so he can fix all the crap Toyota put on the ECU

Very very sad news, the car has died (temporarily) at the worst possible time. The other day I had a job interview in Sydney, I took the MR2 down and noticed that uphills and under load the car really struggled to build speed despite 10psi on the turbo. It was difficult getting from 100 to 110kmph. This was due to the timing being out. Shortly after the 2nd hill at Mooney Mooney I noticed the temperature gauge climb very quickly. Before it hit the red zone I pulled over and turned the engine off and noticed a cloud of steam escaping from the engine lid. I was stranded in my suit with no idea what has happened.
 

 
I waited for it to cool then babied it to a rest stop and never drove the car in the red zone. At the rest stop I opened the radiator cap and there was nothing in there. Just steam pouring out. I waited for a little bit but being under the pressure to get to the interview I started pouring some water into the car, only to find out it was all coming out from somewhere (later found out to be the water pump, which was supposed to be brand new with the engine) on the other side of the car. I had to keep going and decided to take the berowra turn off and pulled over again because it was getting hot and filled up with more water. The car was struggling to turn back on but it did, made it to the train station and navigating the paring lot the car stalled 3 times and did not want to turn back on and wouldn't survive at low revs. Pulled into a disabled parking space and left a plea of mercy if an inspector came past and got on the train to the CBD. Organised to get it on a trailer home and moving it onto the trailer it would work but sounded very bad and didn't want to tick over.
 
 
 
I got the trailer out the front of my property access and drove the car to the garage and the car stalled and I just rolled it into the shed with the momentum.
 
Invited my mechanic mate over the next day to help diagnose. We did a compression test and got 0psi in cylinders 2-4 and 30psi in cylinder 1, fearing the worst We took the timing belt cover off and found the problem. The water pump had collapsed on the F3 which caused the water to all come gushing out which caused the overheat. The collapse of the pump  meant the timing belt lost tension and probably skipped a notch or two which caused the loss in power. The actual cover of the timing belt was all that was keeping it on the engine. When it stalled driving into my shed that was the last cough, the water pump pulley acted like a knife on the remains of the belt and just took all the teeth off it so the pistons would move but the camshaft would not. Thankfully these are non-interference engines. Checked the pistons all reached TDC and BDC properly and they did so thats a plus but aside from that its still very much dead. I hope that with a new belt and pump it lives to see another day. Lets all pray that the head/engine hasn't warped or cracked and hope that the head gasket is fine. 
 

 
How did the interview go tho?