That tape behind the side mirrors sounds like a really good idea, I'll definitely give that a go!
 

Okay so big post time seeing as I've been negligent in updating my thread quite a bit has happened but nothing worth dropping your jaw at just yet. 
All Japan Day in Newcastle was great but I've never seen more disinterested hosts in all my life they really seemed like they were shocked that Japan made something else other than the Skyline but cars looked great so there's that. The next big ticket was Toymods Toyotafest which was a great event again despite the trophies always going to the same people but was great to catch up with other dub owners and break out the polish:



 
After that it was time for some overdue repairs/mods. When the engine warped the head my cooling system filler neck broke under pressure:

So I tried to order one from Toyota but they no longer have any in stock so I went to the next best thing. Josh at MR2 wreckers sent me one which was essentially brand new! and was a perfect fix.
 
My cooling system issues seem to be at an end. Every drive I loose about 10mL but that's a SW20 thing apparently and its never any more than that. The old stupid cap and neck were the causes for my car loosing so much coolant. Even after the track day on the weekend (will go into that below) the temps remain constant just a fraction below the middle which is my birthday and christmas in one.
I do have one little issue where my guage can sometimes rise when  the car is off but this is happening less and less so I'm blaming air pockets for that one. 
 
I also found a boss kit for my wheel (after 4 attempts to buy one because people can't understand the concept that gen 1 blinker clocks are different to every other SW20) and installed my TOM's wheel and it looks and feels great:


I need to adjust the tie rods to make it sit 100% straight though I'm about 1-2 degrees off perfect.
 
Also SW20 brains trust, what is this and why is it needed? It attaches to the inside mount bolts for the seat rails. One for driver and passenger, I took it off because the seat was catching on it and not letting me go back further:

 
I attended the Annual General Meeting for the NSW Club and elected myself to become the Vice President/Public Officer for the club. Given my love for the community, these cars and the law it makes sense really and hoping to promote more involvement and work towards some awesome events next year. Of course while we were there we took the opportunity for photos:


 
Mighty Car Mods announced their Nationals event at Sydney Motorsport Park and so I needed to fix my boost cutting issues. After taking recommendations from Robk and Knightrous I asked Mark from MRC to install my Fuel Cut Defender and tune it into the car. He did a fantastic job and I cannot reccomend him enough. He took the time to explain what he did and how he did it and what I should be looking at in the future. He provided me with a copy of the Dyno run where my car made 150Kw! Which is an awesome amount of power. Although my AFR needs fixing if I'm going to be chasing more power:

He explained the last tuner that put in the EBC T'd into the wrong Vac hose and as a result both my guage and EBC were reading 5psi less that I was actually producing which means I've been running the car at 15-17psi for the past few months and explains a lot of the boost cut. While the block can take it, probably didn't do the CT26 any favors.
 
Sadly I didn't have the money for Wakefield Park Challenge but I did have the funds for MCM Nationals, a cruising event at eastern creek which was more than enough track action for me in my roly poly stock suspension. With the EBC tuned and reading correctly I had great fun with mates and had some serious racing in some corners and this was all allowed by the track marshals despite the cruising nature of the event. The car's temperature amazingly didn't move and I'm beyond thankful for that:


 
I did have one issue (which cost me a race and a bet with a mate) that perhaps someone could help me with. I have a GFB BOV and EBC and for one run I ran with the BOV venting to atmosphere and doing this caused the EBC to only give me 8psi despite it giving me 14psi in the previous session. I turned the BOV back to recirc and it was fine. Anyone got suggestions as to why I lost all that pressure?

Looks like you've been having a blast mate! New steering wheel looks awesome, very envious of it

As for the boost pressure drop - is this not typical when venting to atmosphere? You're literally bleeding off boost pressure out of the intake, hence the "pssh" sound people cream their pants over. Personally I believe this is why a recirc. BOV or even BOV-less is better. Honestly I'm unsure why you would of kept boost pressure last time it was set up to vent to atmosphere.. are you sure it was venting properly? 

Thanks it was found in a Jap opp shop and a mate got it for me while he was over there. 
 
Nope not typical at all. Under WOT it shouldn't be venting anything outside the system. It should only vent to atmosphere when I close the throttle plate and the residue boost is vented. When I have my BOV set to recirc it instead vents that pressure pre-turbo. I can't hear it venting under WOT so I have no idea why it won't give me the 14psi its tuned for :/

Might be worthwhile pressure testing the system in both configurations.

Had the Annual Christmas party for the NSW crew today and got some awesome photo's at the boat ramp park we went to:

 
Also my turning fog lamps have stopped turning and I'm not sure why. It's either because my battery is crap or because I've removed the stock wheel which had this interesting part on it:


 
Anyone got any idea what it is and if this is the cause of my lights? 

That reinforcement bar under both seats is there to strengthen the seatbelt anchor on the side of the seat and it transmits the crash loading. Definitely needs to be there. May need to smooth the plastic coating where it has been catching to allow full seat  movement.

I never new the stock anchor point was on the seat :-/ i run A/M seats and the anchor point is on the fuel tank tunnel on what looks like a factory mount. Interesting but now I'm somewhat concerned as I don't have those load spreaders.

So that ring thing pictured above is a steering sensor that allows the fog lamps to turn. Looks like I'm going to have to work out a way to make it work with the new wheel. 
 
New Problem, can the turbo brains trust help me on this one? When the car gets hot and has been boosted a lot the turbo all of a sudden reduces my max boost to 10-12psi when it should be giving 15-16psi. It feels like fuel cut and the car wants to go faster but something is preventing boost building. Car is fine when its had a moment to cool down. Anyone got a clue as to what it might be?

Don't know what stuff you have controlling this so only guessing but the ECU is probably detecting something it
doesn't like. High inlet air temp, knock. etc.  ECU is then pulling timing back to safeguard engine.