Hey Guys,
 
In the process of changing out the rear brake pads. I got the square tool and wound the piston back in. I've read here that the piston should be unwound 180 Degree's:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6372&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Now, I've tried unwinding 180 degrees + 210 Degrees, but everytime it winds out 'just' too far to slip the calliper back down onto the pads. Has anyone else has this issue?

I've so far just unwound it 90 degree's and I can fit it back over the pad. Is there an easy test I can do to ensure the hand brake is working correctly on both sides of the vehicles?
 
Thanks!!

The rear pistons have an marking on them (triangle, from memory), that must match up with the little notch on the caliper itself.   Wind the caliper all the way in, then wind it out only to match up those marks, then you're set.  You can then adjust your handbrake at the pivot in the middle of the car :)

Brilliant! Yes there is a 'V' at only one end of the piston. I knew it was for something but not quite sure what.
 
I can't remember if I aligned it, but pulled the handbrake and managed to get it to the wheel torqued down to specs whilst it was on stands, so it was definitely doing something on both sides. Took the car for a quick drive to bed in the pads, pull the hand brake a few times it certainly slowed the car down.
 
Handbrake does seem rubbish in my MR2, not sure if others feel the same way. You certainly wouldn't come close to being able to lock up the rear wheels when travelling in a straight line.

The 'v' indicates the position the piston needs to be in, for it to slide back over the pads again, as the pads have a circular notch in them, so that they physically can't fall out. :)
 
The handbrakes are generally **** because the cables are decades old and are starting to come apart, lol. 
 
I used to have a pair of cables made up new and balanced the handbrake by hand, then i could actually make it lock up for autocross work :D

Pete, As EssDub said new cables make a HUGE difference, I had the same issue with mine I found out the rubber boots at the rear were split and letting moisture/road grud in, I was able to source new OEM cables from the forum sponsor MR2 Wreckers Australia on the front page, great to deal with, getting cables made up like EssDub did could be another option did you get a shop to do that EssDub? sounds interesting.

Hmm, my cables are like new. Only replaced a few kms ago. Did the whole lot, so I don't think that's the problem. I checked the rubber boots and they are all fine.
 
Essdub, when you say you could lock them up, was this turning or travelling in a straight line. Its much easier to lock the wheels when turning than in a straight line.
 
Given the pads are still bedding in, I'll see how it goes....hopefully it will get better.
certainly on the old pads my car would roll down hills with the handbrake. It would hold fine initially but as they cooled and contracted they would lose their grip. Its not fun to go outside and find your car at the bottom of the hill and up the curb! (luckily with no damage)

With my average road tyres, I could lock them in a straight line.  On sticky tyres, nothing will work, haha :D
 
Yeah, in NZ there was a cabling shop that could make them up out of a thicker braided wire, they outlasted my time with the car and were still good. 
 
Disc brake handbrakes are never fantastic, as you said, as the discs cool, the 'clamp' gets weaker.  All the more reason to leave it in gear :D