2014/01/02 13:48:11
Gatesys SW20
Hi,
for a number of months now i have tried combating this problem, however it was doing good, but all of a sudden its back again.
My car runs far too rich.
It stinks.
i pull up to lights, all i can smell is a mixture of burnt and unburnt fuel, i clean my exhaust tip out to show off that shiny shiny aha, and within about a day its black again.

So far i have replaced: in order of latest to first
Timing belt, water pump, all tensioners and pulleys-
cranked up ignition timing to 12-13degrees
replaced O2 sensor-
bottle of upper engine cleaner
new plugs, NGK iridiums
new leads- (cheaped out, eagle 300 leads for an st185 celica, as all of the mr2 ones didnt fit properly)
New genuine dizzy cap, rotor button, and coil pack
Fuel filter, and toyota fuel injector cleaner
new coolant and thermostat. all OEM bled properly.

And today i noticed, yes its quite hot. but it occurs on lower humid days aswell, it kind of stumbles a bit down low, now i thought with the ignition timing cranked it would be pretty fiesty down low.
im thinking perhaps, my cam timing is off.. but it was apparently set lining up the marks.
it seems to get 400-500 kms per tank.
Also it idles when warm at about 800ish rpm

im not sure what could cause this.
any ideas?
tps sensor?
coolant temp sensor?

any ideas would be great.






2014/01/02 21:57:18
Knightrous
Check your fuel pressure and check that the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking. Without vacuum reference, the regulator could be higher/low at idle then vice versa in the top rev range.
2014/01/03 11:19:49
Gatesys SW20
Thanks Aaron
how would I check pressure?
will check that vaccum line however!
2014/01/03 13:13:48
Knightrous
There will most likely be a guide on how to test it in the BGB for the SW20.
2014/01/14 23:18:19
Gatesys SW20
So problem is still here after check all vaccum lines,
im thinking perhaps maybe someone has played woth the tps? is there a way to check/reset it
also, my pedal accel has a fair amount of free play, and my adjusting nuts wont budge (seized)
most likely, can you fiddle with the butterfly adjusting screw or dont touch it? ill try and soak the adjusters in freeze and release or something to try and free them up.

Also, i was thinking it may be the igniter i want to check the values on it make sure its working to spec, but cant seem to find a write up, anyone got links to the bgb? or pdf files?
or a spare igniter i could borrow to check if it makes a difference, really racking my brain now as to what it could be,

So basically it still blows some black smoke, under revving, and heavy accel especially low end revs in high gear,
and is a bit gutless taking off untill 2-2500 rpm


2014/01/15 08:17:12
track_mr2
Don't touch the butterfly adjustment screw. It wont have anything to do with your issue.
If you can smell fuel it has to be running really rich. So either your ignition timing is completly screwing up or you have way too much fuel going in.
First thing to do is work out what's going wrong, no point just changing parts without doing some checks.
Take out the spark plugs when it happens and see if one is black or all are black to isolate if it is happening on one cylinder or all cylinders. Faulty ignitior modules can cause over fuelling because they fire the spart at the wrong time so you get a lot of unburnt fuel but then again you might have a single injector o-ring worn out and fuel seeping past....or even one of your new leads may be fault, so try and see if you can isolate it to a particular cylinder or if its across all.
You might also want to do a compression test to see if that pulls up anything suspect.
I take your car is a NA right? Could also be related to running a pod filter if you have one getting heat soak on hot days. If its only happening on hot days that could be the issue.
2014/01/15 15:46:34
Gatesys SW20
Not only hot days,
running full cai that's heat shielded and runs down to the side gills,
happens in hot or cold weather,

will give the plugs a good look, and do a comp test this weekend,
could another thing be a faulty or dyiong battery?
as the battery seems to be quite old and a very cheap one (brand i've never heard of)

will post up once I have conducted some tests,

leaning more towards the igniter as it did have a real bad flat spot, changed the coil and that helped a lot, but can still feel it.
so would not be surprised if its that,

will post up once ive tried to isolate/do a few checks.

Thanks a lot! 
2014/01/15 18:14:04
track_mr2
The battery will be easy to check just put a multimeter across the positive and negative when the cars running. I don't think it will be your issue, will probably come back around the 14volts mark.
Yeah check the plug colors to see if ones coming out blacker then the others. They are usually a brown color if all's running right. 
 
2014/02/09 19:35:11
Gatesys SW20
Ok so a bit of an update
Put on another igniter I bought from road and track
Seemed it improve things a little but not much

So finally had some spare time to go over the car added a new ground wire from the negative terminal straight to the body seems to start a bit quicker now, pulled the plugs out all seemed the same colour brown/grey at the tip black everywhere else
I'll post a picture

Did a compression test did it twice on each cylinder
Average in each cylinder was:
Cylinder 1( farthest from dizzy) 178psi
Cylinder 2 180 psi
Cylinder 3 182 psi
Cylinder 4 178 psi

Lowest reading was 175 highest was 183psi
During testing

Not sure what my problem is
Someone please help..
2014/02/09 19:40:04
Gatesys SW20
Pictures of spark plugs
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