Hi,
I have recently purchased a Rev 2 1993 and looking for any thoughts of trouble shooting or idiots guide to the below;
 
1. No boost.  Vac at 20 but wont boost.  Rattle when accelerating.  I did not have this problems previously.  Work done recently; new silicon hoses, new timing belt and timing tested at 10, reinstalled intercooler & piping, detailed very detailed degrease / clean with high pressure washer.  I can not hear any air leaks (rattle is very loud when accelerating however not there when no acceleration), vac needle moves only one or two numbers from vac 20 but no further movement than about 18 vac and no boost. Removed piping and checked turbo for any shaft play however no lose movements.  Spun turbo and no noises from turbo when spinning.
 
2. Power steering motor runs continuously when power steering power is connected.  If the car power is removed and the power steering power cable connected it turns on all dash lights as if the car is on (about to be started).
 
3. What is the recommended height of an MR2 turbo and where to measure?  The car has coilovers and looking for what is best to set the height at.  The car has 18" rims so looks full in the wheel arches.  Is there any benefit to having the front of the car lower due to the weight distribution from front to rear.  Any advice or guidance is greatly appreciated.
 
4. Has anyone installed a Mongoose M80 alarm with turbo timer in built.  It mentions to use immobiliser circuit one to connect to ignition sensor wire and immobiliser circuit 1.  Does anyone know wire colours to what it is meant to be connected to or what to test the wires for as I dont understand the diagram.   I will try calling Mongoose however thought if anyone know please share.  
 
I would normally just go to a mechanics however the car is unregistered in Mildura (long storey) stuck until the car is up to road worthy.

Hi Tony,
 
In relation to Q3.
Last time I checked some 3mths ago, the legal ride height (in SA) for a toyota mr2 1993 was: Measurements are taken from centre of wheel to top / start of wheel arch.
Front = 335mm
Rear = 325mm
 
Also you state you have coilovers fitted to the car, If so, you have 3 options: u will need an engineers report, or they need to be modified so they are no longer height adjustable, or replace the entire set with struts - that arnt fitted with low springs.
 
One last thing.. again in S.A, cant speak for other states, you need to have a tire placard fittted to the car.  Being a 1993 it should have come from factory with 15' alloys.  factory sizes below:
Front = 195/55/15 (overall diameter = 596mm)  - eg, 215/35/18 = 608mm ALL GOOD.
Rear = 225/50/15 (overall diameter = 606mm) - eg, 225/35/18 = 615mm ALL GOOD.
 
*Legal limit: There is no requirement for the increase or decrease in rim diameter provided that the overall diameter of the rim/tyre combination does not change by more than 15mm
 
Hope this info assists.

Cheers Carmikey.
 
UPdate... found the front engine mount had half a bent bolt in the bottom and no bolt in the top.  The side engine mount has a rod on the rear side and rubber/bushings that was not tight.  New bolts and tightened - now no noise. HOWEVER... still VAC sits at 20 acceleration at times will get the needle to move to about 5 VAC however mostly does not move from 20 VAC.  What does your boost gauges show for VAC when at idle ?
 
Also the idle is at 1500 and will not lower, I have tried the adjustment idle bolt at top of the throttle body and the adjustment of the sensor at the side of the throttle body.  Any ideas, anyone to any of it :)
 
Thanks

Hi Tony,
 
There is a vacuum actuated thing that bumps up the idle revs when the A/C is on in mine (1990GT). Putting the hoses back from being reversed at some stage assisted idle (before the HG went and further ugliness was revealed) 
Rear side of the engine bay, from memory, it's a couple of years now.. 

no boost may imply the timing belt has been installed wrong.

1. Has been solved / improved.  There is an actuator - round device that is connected to a pipe next to the turbo and has a long rod on the back.  That rod was not connected to the wastegate (the circlip came off).  Reconnected and is better.  I was told that the rod is meant to move however is not moving.  The blow off valve is still not working.  Occasionally I can get 5 psi Boost.  So I think this maybe solved enough to drive it from Mildura to QLD and a decent mechanic to test properly.
 
2 and 4 remain for solving another day.... any suggestions greatly appreciated....

Alarms are typically black wired with tags, removed by the installer, to increase security and annoy anyone who has to work on it later. The circuit board ...may... have indicators.
 
M80 has 3 relays and immobilises whichever circuits the relays are connected to. Ignition is 1, controlling the turbo timer.
2 & 3 (if used) are usually starter, fuel pump or some other electric circuit.
 
Depending on installation, other inputs could be voltage drop and Normally Open (N/O) or Closed (N/C) switches and outputs to horn, siren, dome light, indicators, door locks and boot release.
 
What are you trying to get it to do?
 

Trying to get the turbo timer feature to work.  It talks of connecting a wire to 12V (simple), then another wire to the ignition sense wire - what is that wire..... 
 
Apparently when turning the key out it will time for a programmed time before turning off. Trying to wire for this feature.
 

Usually done on the wire coming from the ignition barrel that livens up the ignition (& red lights) on the dash. You cut the wire and interpose the M80, so the engine still runs after the key is removed. Personally I'd wait until other problems are sorted. Just let the car idle for a bit, if you think the turbo is going to be that hot.

Hi,
 
Update questions as this is my first MR2 Turbo with power steering.  Is the power steering meant to make a noise all the time or does is it meant to make noise only when you turn the steering wheel?
 
Update question - what is VAC on the boost gauge meant to sit at when idling.  The gauge says it goes to 30 however the needle only goes to 20.  Is this a problem?
 
Idle is up at 1100 rpm, and have twisted the screw ontop of the throttle body and turned the sensors on the side of the throttle body area, however cant get the idle / rpm less than 1100.  Anything else to check (not too fussed on this one)...
 
Any ideas is greatly aprreciated - its almost on the road :)