Good to see some interest in the MAP ECU2/3, definitely one of the better interceptors and very cost effective.
I did the same as cogs in relation to boost control/T-vis operation, for the same reasons. Although being gen3, with T-vis operation I set a boost pressure overide to open at a set boost pressure or 3200 rpm to accomodate a fast spooling turbo. Reason being, the gen2 stock ECU employs a count-down timer to activate the T-vis and consequently the opening point is dynamic rather than defined. When the T-vis is opening late in relation to rpm, there's a definite lean spike that occurs in the AFR trace and volumetric efficiency drops off.
In terms of the MAP ECU2/3 itself, just think of it as an interface to the stock ECU that allows full control of many stock functions, as well as EFI & IGN..and a host of optional features, not bad at all for the cost.

Thanks guys,
That Mac solenoid you're using cogs - you wouldn't happen to have the p/n and good place to find one in Aust for it? :D  Amazon wont ship me the Delco to here   also how is it wired up if using the Mac, will I have to buy a connector from somewhere?
 
Any reason why the ME2 EBC runs at 20Hz? do some other standalone EBCs run at another frequency?
Could also I ditch the AFM right upon installation, and just load in an existing fuel map for the Gen2 3SGTE? or leave it, as many people criticise the AFM for being a massive power restriction. 
 
 

The p/n is 35A-AAA-DDEA-1BA, and it's available on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com.au/it...Solenoid-/250818327731
I saw those Delco solenoids on Amazon, they are amazingly cheap.  I don't know any details, but I believe there are agencies that will accept deliveries from Amazon and redirect them O/S (for a fee of course).
I used a connector set from Autobarn which is similar to the ones used in the EFI systems on Holdens (waterproof, etc):

 
I don't know why 20Hz was chosen but I guess it's a compromise between stability of the wastegate actuator (higher frequency is better) and precision of the solenoid's mechanical cycling capability (lower is better).
 
You could ditch the AFM on install, but it's probably a better idea to leave it in place for a while and let the ME2 run in auto-learn mode.  Also, T-VIS will cause you tuning headaches for reasons I've covered before, basically MAP based load sensing doesn't work well with  variable VE engines.  If you're going with MAF elimination it'll be a lot easier to also disable T-VIS.  I don't yet have any useful data but I'm not convinced the AFM is as bad as its rep!  I won't ditch it until I'm sure it's restricting further improvement.

Thanks cogs
Hmm, I know my family in CA will accept deliveries from Amazon, which is what i'll probably do since I'm in no hurry! (hopefully no fee) :)
 
Can I disable the TVIS while I'm still running the MAF? I wont really care for it, if I can get earlier spool/better AFRs - IMO it's more of a hindrance to performance. 
I hear anyway that you don't need to ditch the AFM until you're at about 200+ rwkW...

MRTurbo

Can I disable the TVIS while I'm still running the MAF? I wont really care for it, if I can get earlier spool/better AFRs - IMO it's more of a hindrance to performance. 

Yes, On my previous MR2 the TVIS was playing up and would not open at high revs all the time.  Just take off (and plug) the hose to the TVIS actuator (under the intake manifold - takes only a minute), and see how it drives, you can easily reverse it.  On mine it made a huge difference to top end power, and I did not notice any decrease in mid/low performance.  I just left it disconnected.

think i must be the only person around who actually updated/kept their tvis rather than getting rid of it. the problem is the rubber diaphram is stuffed in 90% of the older cars, and so the system doesn't work.... and toyota dont sell a replacement unit....

How would I know if it's working or not? Could I just assume since its an older SW20 then it probably wouldn't be? I'll just disable it when I do my ME3 install...the ECU uses it to cut power anyway so that's just annoying as if running rich as a dog isn't safe enough.

On the TVIS its default setting (ie disconnected vaccum tube to actuator) is open flaps.  On mine, it was obviousy not releasing the vacumn, and was hindering top end power, so my diaphram in the actuator would have been ok. 
 
If you diaphram is leaking, then your problem would be the other way, flaps dont close (at all or fully) at low revs (or whatever the exact strategy of the ecu is - I believe its more than just revs related switching).
 
How will you know if yours works?  Well if its an issue like mine, disconnect it, the flaps will be open and go for a drive, you will notice it on your first full throttle blast to redline.  Like I said, on my car the difference was HUGE.
 
Cheers

Might have to give it a try. I always thought my lack of top end snap was due to the CT26 and substandard exhaust...could be the TVIS acting up though, as sometimes if feels like it wants to rev and other times it doesn't...Toyota really made these engines feel temperamental. 

On mine, I could get it to open by driving in first gear at say 2500rpm at a constant speed for 5 seconds or so, then full throttle.  It wouldnt open always at the same revs, but did open everytime I did this.  If I just used full throttle while rolling off the clutch it wouldnt open.