grosso
I'm leaning towards just leaving the standard ARBs with standard suspension for daily use. When i'm out for track days just install my coilovers with the standard ARBs. This will let me adjust Front camber and with Sonic Boom Camber adjuster on the rear.  I will also look into adjusting the caster also. As I'm not getting any clear info on this Question. Trial and error it is!

Like I said at the beginning of this post - there is no 'easy fix' for this.  It is all down to what suits the driver and what they're capable of controlling.  

Reddtarga
Re SW20 caster:
Just something that may be of interest is that I found the early model (pre '92) adjustable caster rods can give about 4 degrees caster maxed out.
Also the stock early model front strut top centers are non concentric and are normally offset towards the front, but they can be rotated 180 degrees to achieve about an extra 1 degree of caster giving about 5 degrees total.
Also when doing this toe and camber won't be affected, and it can easily be done with the front of the car jacked, without dissassembling the strut.
 
Of course the later strut tops are concentric so that won't work, and post '92 models don't have adjustable caster rods anyway.
The early models really do have a lot more adjustment in that respect.

I did check out this info and mine has all Gen 3 suspension setup no adjustment on the front caster, Will need to look at after market kit if it needs it.

stuka
Good info reddtarga
 
ZeroGK with the AW11 swore by the swaybarless setup. You need to consider spring rates as these would be drastically different from the typical factoryish set up. Have a search on the forum otherwise I might be able to dig something up from my records.

Thanks!

The swaybarless setup required extremely stiff springs from memory. It would be terrible to drive on the street. 

Some test update notes: Tried ST heavy duty swat bars with standard suspension. This pulled the connecting link out of the strut as the standard suspension must have been too soft for the ST bar. Now need to weld and repair strut if I want to use it again. So now I have installed my HSD Coilovers 6kg front and 10kgs rear with out any sway bar  connections. I set the damper to 16 the softest setting and adjusted the spring rate 10% harder. I went through the Adelaide Hills yesterday to test it. I found it work better and it stuck to road like glue, yes the ride was firmer and having no sway bar connected it soaked up the bumps well. The change off direction was sweet. Yes my kidneys are still Ok. In the future I will test it again and I will adjust dampers setting to see if it improves more. Others tests I will connect the ST bar on front only, then the back st bar as well at Mallala race track to see if it's needed, easy to test the bars are on the car still, I just removed the left hand front and rear connecting links.

HSD's any good? I've been thinking about these for a while

"pulled the connecting link out of the strut"
Not sure the extent of the damage to your strut, but if you re-weld the bracket, maybe consider something like in the pic. with 3 mm steel strip. This should make the bracket much stronger anyway.
 

jaycrab
HSD's any good? I've been thinking about these for a while

I ran them for about 4 years. OK but deteriorated quickly.


Would highly recommend BC BR coil overs - ride great and handle well on the track. Only a little more expensive than HSD