I just installed Heavy Duty ST sway bar on the front with standard suspension. I notice the steering seem harder to turn as it twist the sway bar a little bit. This setting is for daily driving. For the track I do have a good set of Coil overs if I install theses without sway bars attached. I feel the car will turn in sharper? The coil overs would be set harder, rebound  and springs to stop body roll, also keeping inside wheel in contact with the road. As it would not be fighting the inside wheel lifting it of the ground with the heavy duty sway bar.
 
Any experts out there?

Hard dampers+rebound = less suspension travel = more likely to cock a wheel.
Softer dampers+rebound+stiffer ARBs = more suspension travel = less likely to cock a wheel.  Also less likely to send you into the litter when you change direction in a hurry and the car doesn't lurch from one side to the other during transition.  
 
ARB's do very little to affect the turn-in, they are simply there as a stabilizing device, to prevent roll mid-corner.  Drive all the different combinations you can and work out the answer from that.  There is no 'golden rule' for this stuff and it is almost entirely down to the driver to understand what changes made (if any) will do to the dynamics of the vehicle.

How are the sway bars drop links setup? They should have zero preload and if possible aligned true vertical.

"I just installed Heavy Duty ST sway bar on the front with standard suspension."
 
Just in case you don't already know, with SW20's when using stiffer ARB's it is important to fit reo plates on the front, otherwaise the chassis can crack under the ARB mounts.
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=62180
 

Reddtarga
"I just installed Heavy Duty ST sway bar on the front with standard suspension."
 
Just in case you don't already know, with SW20's when using stiffer ARB's it is important to fit reo plates on the front, otherwaise the chassis can crack under the ARB mounts.
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=62180
 

Thanks! That has been done.

stuka
How are the sway bars drop links setup? They should have zero preload and if possible aligned true vertical.

They are vertical, the car is not lowered. So would you put ABR with coil overs?

Is there zero preload in the links?
 
I have experimented with different swaybars and coilovers and have found stock ARBs to be the best, for my style of driving anyways. With the larger diameter front it should turn in better and for track you should consider dialing in as much castor as possible, which will give you dynamic camber and improved turnin.

Re SW20 caster:
Just something that may be of interest is that I found the early model (pre '92) adjustable caster rods can give about 4 degrees caster maxed out.
Also the stock early model front strut top centers are non concentric and are normally offset towards the front, but they can be rotated 180 degrees to achieve about an extra 1 degree of caster giving about 5 degrees total.
Also when doing this toe and camber won't be affected, and it can easily be done with the front of the car jacked, without dissassembling the strut.
 
Of course the later strut tops are concentric so that won't work, and post '92 models don't have adjustable caster rods anyway.
The early models really do have a lot more adjustment in that respect.

I'm leaning towards just leaving the standard ARBs with standard suspension for daily use. When i'm out for track days just install my coilovers with the standard ARBs. This will let me adjust Front camber and with Sonic Boom Camber adjuster on the rear.  I will also look into adjusting the caster also. As I'm not getting any clear info on this Question. Trial and error it is!

Good info reddtarga
 
ZeroGK with the AW11 swore by the swaybarless setup. You need to consider spring rates as these would be drastically different from the typical factoryish set up. Have a search on the forum otherwise I might be able to dig something up from my records.