You'l definitely have to remove the driver's side mount - it's in the midde of the timing belt!

Thanks guys for all the advice, it's a big job so i am trying plan ahead as much as possible.
I've ordered a Cometic multi layer gasket which i've been told is good, will keep you guys posted on the results.
I've never done this before so any further tips would be much appreciated.

Toyota Genuine is usually the best head gasket if you aren't pushing the GZE about normal boost levels.
 
The way I removed the crank pulley bolt was soaked it in WD40 overnight, removed the rear inspection port off the transmission, stuck something in between the flywheel teeth and rotate engine until it locks, then get a big breaker bar and crack the bolt.
 
From memory (I'm running stock GZE) the supercharger belt is 5PK 940. I bought a Gates racing one as they are less prone to slipping.
 
Also do the water pump while you are at it. Again Toyota genuine is best as they come with the front and rear halves of the pump, as well as new O-rings where it meets the engine. Most other pumps only come with the front half and a gasket to bolt it to the rear, more of a hassle.
 
I took the head off mine in the engine bay but took me two weekends working at my own leisure, making sure nothing was lost in the process.
 
Once the head is off, inspect your bores and make sure it all looks okay there too.

we have various gaskets and belts in stock. we normally DO NOT fit a cometic gasket unless the engine is totally removed and both head and block machined, as the factory machining on the block is not good enough for the steel shim, so they commonly leak. we can suggest much better gaskets if you dont want to do this.

I didn't think of that, Cometic was recommended to me by my friend/mechanic. I only want to do this ONCE so naturally i'd like to use the best gasket i can find. What about a TRD gasket?

I had a lot of trouble getting the crank pulley bolt off with a socket and extension bar. You can lower the motor enough pretty easily but at least for me, no amount of manual force was going to loosen that bolt. Ended up having to go to a garage to get it done, apparently the rattle gun had no issues. 
I later heard of someone who wedged the socket against the chassis somewhere and just turned the key and used the starter motor to loosen up the bolt, although I wouldn't recommend it...

Yeah a PROPER rattle gun will do it. Those 2HP compressor jobbies most people have in their garage have no hope of loosening it.
 
I didn't have any luck with the breaker bar hence soaking it overnight. I was using a cheap and nasty 1/2" torque wrench and it fit perfectly for cracking. Just note though don't ever expect accurate results from a torque wrench you've used it to crack a bolt. They're only good for torquing up bolts, not loosening them.
 
Yep starter motor method can work too but is very risky of it coming off the nut and causing carnage in the engine bay, as well as putting stress on the starter motor and battery.
 
One tip I've learnt is to use a car jack (not a wind up emergency one) on the end of your breaker bar. Pump the car jack, it turns the breaker bar and voila! cracked bolt and hardly any strength needed.

Some good tips here.

I have only done 4age head gasket/water pump/timing belt in another car, however from working on my 4agze, my best advice is to remove all peripheral components in that area to make your life easier, there is not a lot of space to work in there. I couldn't even get my alternator out without removing the fan-housing and a mounting bracket.

Maj- the jack solution sounds like a win. On other cars I have used a breaker bar with 2m of steel pipe over the handle to extend the length and leverage (just to crack the thread).


I was planning to embark on a similar mission to freshen up my 4agze in the car, but just acquired an engine hoist so will probably drop the motor out and clean everything up... Yay!

Two's R Us, stock a replacement gaskets as well.
http://twosrus.com/catalo...27&products_id=850