2010/11/10 13:37:49
chunkmo
quote:
Originally posted by Reddtarga
Penrite Hypoid 80w90 is a GL5 oil

Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 is a GL4 and would have been the one to use, cheap too.


I'm curious as to why you recommend the penrite gear oil 75? The BGB states it should be a GL5 80w90 oil: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/maintenance/Manual_026_0001.jpg

Senol: Glad to hear it got replaced under warranty :)
2010/11/10 18:03:14
Senol
quote:
Originally posted by chunkmo

quote:
Originally posted by Reddtarga
Penrite Hypoid 80w90 is a GL5 oil

Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 is a GL4 and would have been the one to use, cheap too.


I'm curious as to why you recommend the penrite gear oil 75? The BGB states it should be a GL5 80w90 oil: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/maintenance/Manual_026_0001.jpg

Senol: Glad to hear it got replaced under warranty :)



Yes I'm glad too, just need to remove the gearbox and give it back to him now. hopefully sometime this week.
2010/12/10 10:48:48
Reddtarga
quote:
Originally posted by chunkmo

quote:
Originally posted by Reddtarga
Penrite Hypoid 80w90 is a GL5 oil

Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 is a GL4 and would have been the one to use, cheap too.


I'm curious as to why you recommend the penrite gear oil 75? The BGB states it should be a GL5 80w90 oil: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/maintenance/Manual_026_0001.jpg



I recomended Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 because I have used it for a lot of k's and have found it works great with easy shifting either hot or cold.

Check out:
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

Also check out the tech article on Road And Track's website.(Look under Technical information E code gearbox)
2011/10/01 10:36:45
Duo-Moo-o
Hey guys I've been test driving a few SW20's lately, and come across one with a very similar issue, with shifts into third being a bit notchy, and some friction being felt to get it into gear, there's not a huge amount of grinding or loud/long noises but it is noticeable. The seller assures me it's been like that for a long time (or since he's owned the car) but I was surprised to see he had the same issue when shifting. Sometimes it does not happen every time, but it's obviously there. So I'm suspecting it's the common 3rd gear synchro issue too.
 
Could someone advise a ballpark figure how much it would cost to fix an issue like this? Also what other damage could this be causing if he has been driving with this issue over the years?
 
To be honest it puts me off the car, as I'm not looking to pay out on anything soon, but may be a factor in the haggling process should I not find another suitable car.
2011/10/04 12:07:29
Reddtarga
Duo-Moo-o

Hey guys I've been test driving a few SW20's lately, and come across one with a very similar issue, with shifts into third being a bit notchy, and some friction being felt to get it into gear, there's not a huge amount of grinding or loud/long noises but it is noticeable. The seller assures me it's been like that for a long time (or since he's owned the car) but I was surprised to see he had the same issue when shifting. Sometimes it does not happen every time, but it's obviously there. So I'm suspecting it's the common 3rd gear synchro issue too.

Could someone advise a ballpark figure how much it would cost to fix an issue like this? Also what other damage could this be causing if he has been driving with this issue over the years?

To be honest it puts me off the car, as I'm not looking to pay out on anything soon, but may be a factor in the haggling process should I not find another suitable car.

My NA does something similar, being a bit harder to select 3rd when changing up from 2nd
Has been the much same for the last 70k kms, but not really a problem and synchros seem fine.

This gearshift movement will always be stiffer because both shifter cables have to activate for this change (twice the friction) compared to say going from 1st to second when only one shifter cable is used.

  
 
2011/10/15 16:39:21
Duo-Moo-o
Cheers Red, this did seem to be some sort of fault though, rather than a stiffer shift. Its like there is a definite friction as you move the gear stick toward third, before the shift has fully moved into gear. Slower shifts seemed to help, but not always, and it quickly became annoying as if if third gear just didn't want to engage for a split second.
2015/02/21 15:41:48
tuban
Hi, my third gear synchro is a problem and I'm trying to decide on options.  It's fine for me most of the time as I double-clutch down shifting and I'm pretty good with timing upshift but I hate hearing others try to drive it.
 
What sort of cost do people see to get the box removed and dismantled and synchro rings replaced.  I have the second & third gear synchro rings but I've heard that you may as well fix other stuff if you have it all open.
My japanese import car has nominally 189,000km on the clock.  Does this sound right to see this sort of transmission issue at this km or might the odo have been "adjusted"?
2015/02/21 20:20:27
Guest
Same issue with my mr2 - shifting into third (skip the gear whenever possible) .... I was expecting mega $$$$ to get it fixed so have done nothing about it .... anyone with previous experience getting there gearbox done and happy to share places of recommendation and guide on costs ...
2015/02/22 14:39:01
MR2QIK
If in Sydney, Gearbox Express in Ingleburn. They've done plenty of them. NA & earlier model turbo boxes are generally cheaper to rebuild. Expect between $1500 to $3000 including labour for a transmission rebuild. The higher amount is for the Gen3 LSD turbo boxes.

As for the gear oil, the service guides changed a few times over the years. From ATF Dextron3, GL4 75w90 to GL5 80w90. I've tried just about everything over the years & GL4 75w90 is perfect. To prolong a rebuild (ie synchros are bad/notchy), I've found ATF Dextron3 to be good. Longevity of the box depends on treatment & correct lubrication.
2015/02/22 21:42:51
MR PLOW
Hey Tuban,
I paid $1,000 for mine to come out, apart and back in (you know where, Sydney Nthn Beaches), plus $300 for synchros 2,3 & 4 (via amayama). Unfortunately it took a few tries to get the clutch bled properly. Shifts very nicely now.
If I was going to do anything differently, I'd have gotten the spherical bushes first time around (done now), and a bearing replacement for the square bush (like this http://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_35&products_id=950
<< ..34 - Powered by APG vNext Trial
© 2025 APG vNext Trial Version 5.5

Use My Existing Forum Account

Use My Social Media Account