I'm new to MR2s and interesting cars in general, and was thinking of buying a poor condition AW11 as a project car with the intention of getting it back on the road.
Is this a good idea or a bad one?
I'd appreciate any advice.
Also let me know if this is not the right place to post such questions.

Hi V,
I am not into AW11s, but from what I know, I reckon that your aim is good, if you have the time & some money, & can find a halfway reasonable car to start with.
You have definitely come to the right place for advice & to ask questions.
Welcome.

 
It really depends on your skillset as to whether or not an AW11 is a good fit or not. (a poor example at least anyway)
 
I've built a couple of Classic V8's which are far simpler (for the most part) than an MR2. However the MR2 is much better documented for every nut and bolt than many classics out there. (Using gregory's or the BGB to guide you through)

I'd try to buy yourself a decent example. aim to buy one that has good fundamental components. (IE: Engine and trans in good nic, all interior parts are there etc) - The older cars get, the harder it is to source decent parts.
 
from a solid and complete base car you can give your car a new lease on life through some wrenching time. - Replacing suspension bushings and components, upgrading the engine through simple upgrades, servicing it up, restoring old interior parts etc. 
 
I find the process fun when you have time. If you are rushing though, things just turn to S#!t everytime. 

Make sure to post up if you buy one. fantastic choice in car that will give years of fun. 

Thanks for the replies, I'll be sure to let you know how I get on.
I probably should have mentioned that I'm a robotics engineering student, and I've had some decent time on a lathe and mill, so I'm not completely hopeless. On the other hand I realise there's no substitute for experience.
Taking time sounds like solid advice, and I've got a boringly functional Subaru Liberty as a daily drive so that I can take as long to work on any other cars as I want.
Treay, I find your experiences with the AW11 vs classic V8s very interesting, what is it that makes the classics easier to work on, like are they just simpler, designed to be easy to work on, or do the electronics in the AW11 make themselves a nuisance?

V.Baelde
Treay, I find your experiences with the AW11 vs classic V8s very interesting, what is it that makes the classics easier to work on, like are they just simpler, designed to be easy to work on, or do the electronics in the AW11 make themselves a nuisance?

Not that you asked me but thought I'd pitch in
Two things that make the MR2 harder to work on than an older carbureted engine


1. More electronics to worry about, leading to even less room in the engine bay
2. Engine is crammed into the ass-end of a coupe smaller than your average modern day hatchback
 
In saying that, there's no other car I'd rather be breaking working on

MR2's are just more complex. Vacuum lines are everywhere and electronics are WAY more complex than a classic (unless you convert a valiant charger to run a 700hp injected Hemi from the new Charger etc).

Classics are less cramped, everything you need you can generally order locally. (unless you are a dumb arse and build a classic corvette... then you're just asking for it!... speaking from experience!.)
 

V.Baelde
I'm new to MR2s and interesting cars in general, and was thinking of buying a poor condition AW11 as a project car with the intention of getting it back on the road.
Is this a good idea or a bad one?
I'd appreciate any advice.

 
I'd say find the best condition one you can for the budget you have, don't buy one that has a bent chassis. And don't rush, good cars pop up out of the blue now and then.
 
Above all, whatever you buy, make sure the VIN plate matches the VIN stamped into the chassis, and if it's an import make sure the compliance and import plates are legit.
 
We've seen a couple of examples here where people didn't quite end up with what they thought they paid for.

Thanks for the heads up Dudeman.
How would you check for a bent chassis, just by looking down the side of the car, or is it more difficult than that?
Also the VIN plate is on the bottom of the drivers doorway, isn't it. Do you know where the chassis number is on AW11's?

Hi mate. Depending on what happens I might have a white hardtop 87 to sell.

Just keep in mind, you need to drop the engine and box to remove it and then lift the car so you can slide it out. It can be a sketchy task at times. For most engine work I suggest getting real proficient with the engine removal so you don't kill your back trying to get into the engine bay (unless you only plan on doing it once I guess).
 
Something I'd recommend checking on a potential car is the support brace that runs between the front inner lower control arm mounts. IMO this part is under engineered and most I've seen are slightly bent which shows a collapsing in of these points. If the brace is really bowed, some old mate having a go has understeered it into a gutter or something coming home from the pub. The steering will never be right and you'll need a panel beater with a chain bench to fix it.
 
In anyone's case, I'd suggest re-engineering that brace or at least putting stiffeners on the factory one.