I'll find you a link where you can download or view the entire workshop manual (Called the BGB)
It has everything you could possible want to know in it. All the tests for the above faults etc.
 
Code 14 - To me it sounds like you might have a dodgy igniter. Since the car starts (meaning coil works) and then cuts out due to the ecu not receiving an IGF signal from the igniter. Ecu will cut the engine if no IGF signal received within a couple of engine cycles I believe. Igniters are cheap to buy second hand and are easily located if this is the problem as the same part number is used on different Toyotas.
 
Code 21 - The oxygen sensor might just be unplugged or something. Fixing this won't be the solution to your non running issue. You will get better fuel economy when cruising though :) The car will run fine without an o2 sensor. 

http://manual.teq.org/
 
download either of the 1991 or 1993 BGB zip files.
Unzip it and start reading :)
 
Even though you have a 3s-ge engine the ignition systems should basically be the same as the 5s-fe & 3sgte.
 

Either your coil or ignitor is gone. Checking the resistance will tell you which one or you could just change both. My ignitor went a few months back so I changed both as they are both old. Once you change it then clear the codes and see if any codes come up.
Make sure you get the exact same part number for the ignitor though as many people say different one are interchangable but some will and wont work depending on wether they havea dwell curcuit built in or not. Getting the same part number you can't go wrong.

Ok, just changed the ignitor to no avail, unsure if it was the exact same part number or not. Look identical bar the a little bit of the outer case was wider then the original one, but all the plugs lined up well and it clipped on easy enough. I will replace the coil and double check the ignitor.
 
Fun and games.

Replaced the coil, no luck. Chasing up exact replacement for the Igniter, as the one I got from the wreckers does have a different part number. Looking pretty pricey so far! Does anyone happen to have one lying around?
 
Thanks!

I got mine second hand from ebay for about $50 but you have to wait ages for it to turn up. With the wrong ignitor module my car still started, it was just rev limited. Do you know what part number your ignitor is? should have a sticker ontop.
You might have a break in you distributor wiring or something. Before getting another ignitor take your distributor cap off and check there are no breaks in the wiring. Also check the main coil lead.

Also check if you are getting any spark with a spark plug out.

So is def fuel pump as the car will run with start ya bstrd in the intake (finally had a second person with me). Fuel pump pumps when the car starts but doesnt prime when the ignition is on and then cuts out once the starting sequence has finished. So (my best guess) either it's a relay/fuse somewhere or the ECU isn't telling it to switch on. 
 
On the 3S-GE is there a fuel pump relay/fuse hidden away somewhere? I've checked all the c/opn and efi relays/fuses but had no luck.
 
Cheers!
Ben
 
 

Rabbit
I'm not to sure how it all works in regards to how long the fuel pump should run on ignition (if at all). I just remember hearing some whirring/electronicy noises when the key is turned to ignition, and I'm getting non of that, just silence.
 
I took the fuel return off and no fuel came out when the key was on ignition (which might be normal, unsure) but fuel did piss out when i kicked it over, so at least the pump isn't dead.
 

I have a permanent fuel pressure gauge fitted to my stock '90 model NA mounted after the filter.
Things I have noticed about the pump running sequence:
With just the ignition on, the fuel pump will not work - no pressure.
But then if you crank the starter, (even if only for a moment) the pressure comes on instantly to about 40 psi and stays there whether you start the motor or not.
 
If the motor has been running, when you switch off, the fuel pressure then takes a couple of hours to drop to zero.