The end air tanks to the inter cooler have been milled. Here it is taped up.

Unlike the very hot exhaust manifold where Waste Gates normally reside mine is on the cold side. To guarantee a perfect seal like the BOV i milled a slot for an o-ring

Waste Gate and BOV clamped on

The 2 nipples supply reference air one for a second MAP sender for pre throttle and the other nipple is for the MAC electronic Waste Gate control
  As a comparison to the current inter cooler it is much bigger , however even with the E153 bigger gear box and bigger Rotrex it still all is under and hidden by the intake plenum.
All i had to do was relocate the coolant overflow bottle to the rear quarter in the trunk

Top quality work.

I'd love to be able to do something like this!

Nice CNC work there.

It's pretty amazing effort. Can't believe you have machined that from a solid block of alloy!
Have you considered fitting a dry sump? There is a company in the USA which sells a billet alloy dry sump pan with the pumps bolted directly to the pan. Compact and effective.
 
I think you should bring this to the MR2 Trackday Challenge. Robk needs some competition. 

Spent too much money to take the car to a track.
On our streets dont really need a dry sump however i did look at it a long time ago.
 
Im just enjoying her. She is finished and have other projects currently going on and a new toy to come in 2 years time :)
 
With regards to the billet. The shop worked with me as they wanted to get more experience with the 5 axis. But it was still dear. Thing is with the billet i could model exactly where to put everything.
 
Speed i know she has but what i really like is how it just darts like a go cart. Temprimental she isnt and with all this hot weather we have had my inlet temps are always down.

With the installation of the new SC and intercooler i wanted more room so i had to find a way to move the overflow coolant bottle. Plus its damn had to see the level anyway
Solution a Supra TT coolant bottle. Perfect shape and also a level indicator which is wired to the cluster light for low oil level as the Beams and subsiquent 3s engines dont have a float in the pan
 
Strangely the rear of the MR2 unlike a lot of cars really doesnt have much metal tags to mount brackets :( Im the last person to drill holes unless absolutely necessary. So i thought i would hang the bracket where the light mount to the body and the tab along the wheel well this way with 2 locations it will be absolutely sturdy.
Lights removed

You can see the 2 grommets that the light uses for 2 screws to screw them down What i did was remove them. There diameter is close to 8 mm. So i got a couple of 8 mm stainless bolts machined the head down to 2 mm then tapped a 4 mm thread in the middle. This way i could use 2 button head stainless bolts to hold down the light

Here you go

Before final fitting ill add a bit of selastic to make sure there is a complete seal
Now it that done and the reason why i did that is to provide 2 mounting locations for the bracket

Now that its all done i will trim the part a lot, powder coat and install.
Tried the OEM carpet fitment and no issues :)

 

This shows the pipe work that was fabricated to the inlet of the SC.
 
Also how i made a bracket to hold the intercooler whilst using rubber feet to isolate any engine vibrations
 
I finally tacked up the inlet pipe, tho i ran out of time to get the BOV return nipple on :(
Do it in a few days time then send it out to be welded up

I used one of the unused taps on the gear box to mount the pipe to

Whilst the engine was being worked on i put my attention to other items
 
So after a bit of discussion I'm doing a slight change and i dare say probably the first in a MR2.
No its not the SC but the A/W inter cooler water circulation system.
People might be aware of the modified Corolla reservoir i have in the engine bay. Well i want to remove it . Even tho the bay not being hot never the less its still warm there. Also it simplifies routing the water hoses.
So where to put a reservoir ? I looked in the frunk behind the right light where the ABS relays are but finding a reservoir  to fit is just plain hard after searching the INTERNET and spending 2 days at the wreckers.
Well PWR advised not to have a reservoir as the added water would take longer to cool down.
So what I'm doing/done is to cut the filler neck of the windshield water bottle. Discard the actual bottle then add a fitting to the filler neck to the 2nd Heat exchanger.
Yes a second one that will also have a fan.
Its going in the position under the RH light.
To make extra room there i repositioning the water pump to the LH side.
This way i can even get More direct air to the core.
Ill have the fan come on when the car is stationary and above a certain temp.
This also solves another thing that bothered me with the A/W system , that is when the car is stationary. See when i warm up my car  before i drive the water has warmed up because there is no air circulation

This way i achieve a few objectives.
Removal of the reservoir in the engine bay Have the stationary cooling All covered under the bumper out of sight Nothing to the eye has been modified so looks untouched and OEM :)

Removed the washer bottle and cut off the funnel.
Its actually 2 different molds fused together. I then melted the black plastic of the funnel. Great to see there was a stem of the funnel which i can clamp a hose on.
But being plastic i don't want to crush it so ill put an aluminum ring inside the funnel so the hose can be clamped down tight.