Just received my new Rotrex pulley. I had this made be the same guy ROSS BALANCERS that made my last ones. He does have a sense of humor :)

Anyway i get asked a lot what size pulley i am using well this time its 78 mm.

I use a little program so as to calculate the pulley size so as to get the most of the Rotrex. This is based on crankshaft pulley and red line RPM.

The SC has a factory recommended top speed of 120,000 rpm so with a crank pulley of 130 mm , pulley 78 mm and a red line 7,600 rpm it will travel at 126,666

So at 7,600 it will be 5% over speed and that will be ok since its really only first gear for a split second. It has been reported that the factory test the SC at 20% over speed and they blow up after 20 minutes.
This configuration will give me the max of the Rotrex and as much as possible down low in the rpm range.

So at max it will be blowing 0.63 kgs/sec , about double what i have now

Haha, nice!  Gives a different twist to "custom."
 
Your mods are mind blowingly awesome, you manage to raise the already stratospherically high bar with each project.  I'll be really interested to see all your logged temperatures once it's running.

Thanks , will do. I am thinking of attending a course run by MoTec so that i can get all the information. Im not one that would be considered computer literate :)

Just a bit more today.
Working out the air end tanks.

Covered the IC with a piece of MDF to the same shape. And ill let the pics describe what i did.











So now i have the basic shape to line up the inlet and position points.
If i can get it machined cheap ill do it , if not im going to cast it.

i haven't seen anyone have their name put on a harmonic balancer that certainly is unique! haha
 
Who is the firm that you're selling the plans etc to (big firm or small tuning house in japan? quite interesting and how did they approach you or vice versa?) ?
 
 

Ross Balancers made all my pulleys, he put my name on it for a laugh, he is a character.
 
He sells balancers all over the world and has pictures of my engine showing the pulleys he made. He supplies a company in Japan the balancers and they asked him and then he put them in contact with me.
I did this for me never really thinking anyone would wish to do it , however i have 2 kits already on order and im giving them all the CAD so they can machine it themselves with a kick back.
 
Also we have another project started on another car :) suffice to say its a very newly released car, but thats under wraps right now    

Sweet getting into the new boxer on the market i assume?

Well as i said gee the Toyota diagrams are a very good representation of the actual part.

So here we go the idle control valve.

The OEM Beams one takes the air supply from the inlet pipe to the TB . Something i dont like. With the FI especially the SC as there is pressure when the TB is closed and the varying air the ECU is recalculating where the valve should be opened.

We will put the ICV on the bench to see what the actual resolution of voltage input the valve will open. But tuning with the Motec the existing one i can say that it isnt much.

So to change the set up i purchased an Caldina 2007 one for the reason that its air supply is from the air box, constant atmospheric pressure

And as i thought it is the same body :) So where there would be an opening in the body to supply air from the air inlet pipe it is not machined open. The air is supplied from the airbox.
The valve with no power is slightly opened for start up then the ECU will control the movement based on the Mapping.

In short with the air supply from the air box the ICV wont have a chance to block up with any crap, oil etc as its filtered fresh air from the airbox and the air pressure is constant.

Now the ICV has water in and out. All i need to do is block on of them so the return is thru the thermostat in the TB as normal. The thermostat for those who dont know closes once the TB has reached temp and stops coolant circulation.

Even tho im not in snowy , low temp climate i still want that OEM function.
Also it doesnt matter as the the first chamber isnt milled thru ill still use the Beams gasket.



Slight opening with no power



Chamber not milled open so no air can come from the air inlet to the BT

Here is the comparison with the Beams one

Not much going on this week end as my builder are working on their race car.

So i thought ild start on the Coolant overflow bottle bracket.
This is the starting point. I need to add another 2 bolts along the wheel arch then ill use the holes for the light to anchor another plate of steel then weld it together .

Clean it up and lighten the part. Then ill add the bracket that holds the bottle on 3 isolating rubber bushes



This is approximately how the coolant bottle will sit.
Shouldn't bulge the trunk carpet lining.
One thing for sure easier to see the level than the OEM position.



Speaking to Oteck im going to do something different.

The Aussie cluster/MR2 had a float oil level indicator. The latter models of the 3SGE including the Beams doesnt have one. So obviously the dash light was lit. To stop it lighting up i just pulled the globe out. Well ive traced the wire for it and i will connect the float of the coolant bottle to that line :)

Now i wont even have to move the carpet to check my coolant level