Btw, my MR2 was a tuner whore for many years. Now I just stick with who I trust knows what they're doing, gets good results & knows when to hold back to keep it running reliably. I also own & have played with a few different marques/motors (I have a silly rotary too).

Point is, pick the best tuner you can with experience/proven results & go with their recommendation. Those I've picked/trusted recommend Haltech.

For budget, plug n play & a very handy controller, Power FC is still a trooper, especially with a datalogit. Btw, from memory Adaptronic don't do a plug n play harness for the Gen3.

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys
 
I have had limited dealings with tuners as the only tuner I have dealt with was C&V Performance who tuned our STi when we use to live in Sydney and the reason we went with them was because the guys from Hi Tech Mufflers recommended them, so as far as picking a tuner for my MR2 I will be taking peoples recommendations on board as quite a few of you seem to have some good recommendations from personal experience.
 
As far as what options I want from an ECU, basically I just want an ECU that is going to give me good reliability, drive ability and has good tuner support as my car is a daily driver so I don't want something that is going to be annoying to live with on a daily basis. I like the idea of E85 but I also need the ability to be able to still run 98 due to E85 not being readily available in some areas I travel to hence why I was attracted to a flex fuel set up.
 
As my engine is stock I am looking for the best areas to start improving performance whilst looking after the engine as I am not ready to do a complete engine build as yet so I was thinking the basics for now. Improve the exhaust, fuel system, install a good ecu to allow the engine to be properly tuned and then look at improving the turbo and look at installing a w2a cooling system.
 
I am trying to research as much as I can first before dive in.

Whats your ultimate goal?
 
I've run a power FC for roughly 210rwkw and now at 250rwkw and its done well for both. My only gripe with it is that its not a very flexible ECU in the sense that if you change something up the chain (intake manifold or smth like that), you end up needing to retune.
 
But as a monitoring tool, its pretty good with the commander unit telling you a whole heap of vitals.

I have well over 300rwkw & still run a power fc.....lol e85 is good but years after it was announced, there's still only one within reach for me. Therefore, can't be arsed.

Skip ecu for now & start with exhaust/dump, ebc & a good IC setup. That'll damage your wallet upfront.

Just in response to Tuners.
My partners uncle owns Geforce at Gateshead- he is one of the best in Newcastle with haltechs.

Not to sure about the 3sgte but i know he has tuned a few gt4 celicas and 2 Mr2s having previous dealings with him.
He is a great bloke- a bit cranky at times but a great bloke with years of experience- Glen is his name,

There was another guy who knows alot about 3sgte but only deals with APEXI- and hes a ****er tbh.

Dylmrt,
my goal atm is to get as much performance from the current engine as I can safely and the ultimate goal is to buy a second engine to build up and swap in that can support somewhere around 300rwkw safely. So any supporting mods I do now I want to be doing keeping in mind what I will be looking for later down the track.
 
MR2QIK,
I called in to Hi Tech Mufflers on Monday and spoke to them about getting a nice full exhaust made up with dump pipe so that will probably be first thing on the list. As far as a a ebc goes how safe is it to adjust the boost without being able to remap the fuel? And with the IC I was thinking of looking into getting a Frozen Boost 'type 5' A2W intercooler something like Robk has on his.
 
Gatesy,
I had a bit of a look at Geforce performance site and they look like they like to deal with a lot of V8's. It would be nice to have a good tuner local but I am also now thinking I really do want to go to someone who has plenty of experience with the 3SGTE for that added security I guess.

If it was me personally, I wouldn't bother changing dump pipes yet, I would just do a CAT back exhaust, as because your aiming for 300kw's at a later stage you will probably end up changing turbo's and very likely need a new dump pipe created for it all to meet up properly anyway.

I can't comment on GeForce as I haven't seen/driven their work personally. If you're planning a more hardcore engine, I'd save the entire ecu exercise for then (saves retuning costs). No need for a spare motor, just buy the internal hardware beforehand. The majority of my car's downtime was due to awaiting the arrival of parts.
 
As far as exhaust goes, I'd just grab a nice Jap exhaust (Phoenix Power etc) from Dylan. Would be cheaper than HiTech & "jdm sexy yo". As for the dump pipe, there's actually a significant improvement by changing it, so I'd still do that & sell it down the track if need be. Just make sure you brace any aftermarket downpipe as even the best have a tendancy to crack.
 
No complaints re the intercooler choice either. W2A is the way to go, no sacrifices & I've been running a W2A for years now without any negative side effects. Mine's never heatsoaked.
 
You can comfortably run about 16psi with the stock ecu/ct20b. Can probably go to 18 as long as it's not a hot day, but I'd want to put on a seat of headphones to verify it's not detonating. The issue at that boost with the stock ecu isn't really fuel related, it's ignition timing which gets aggressive from memory. The CT20B turns more into a hairdryer at close to 20psi & beyond. I used to  & preset 16 & 18psi on my ebc when I ran the stock ecu & Blitz K1. Crazy ba$tards like Tristan in WA have run a GT30 @ 20psi on the stock ecu......hahaha Good old days.
 
Those mods are already enough to crack into the 12's from personal experience. Not too shabby.

One reason I was thinking about getting a second engine to build was I had been reading the 98+ blocks had an update for improved strength over the 94 blocks? so I was thinking it may have been added insurance to have built up a stronger block but ether way I would probably look at having the block sleeved with darton sleeves.
 
As far as the exhaust goes the other exhaust I liked the look and sound of was the Berk exhaust but I would still need to do something about a high flow Cat for the dump.
 
Which W2A intercooler system are you running on yours?
 
How does the stock ct20b cope with increased boost as I think I read that the JDM models had a ceramic exhaust wheel which don't like too much boost?
 
everything you have mentioned so far would keep me entertained for a while until I was ready to do a full engine build.

Don't believe Darton make 3S sleeves. If they do, good stuff. Darton revolutionised the Honda scene with those sleeves & crate blocks. The 98 block you're referring to, would probably be a gen4 GTE block. Maybe hard to find a bare short block as most of those motors are probably still purring along. A bit involved in using that Gen4 head & for the price, I'd say it's not necessary/valuable unless you can get it cheap.
 
As for the cat, I'd relocate it to the mid pipe instead. I run a "test pipe" & can easily bolt up the cat if need be.
 
My W2A cooler is custom fabricated. PWR heatexchanger & a converted PWR/FullRace top/side mount core which was extended/sealed for W2A duties. Bosch marine grade water pump, no reservoir. Aircon has been retained & is fully functional.
 
CT20B's were all ceramic. They won't enjoy over 18psi.