By the looks of it oil leaks don't phase Aaron anyway :D

There is another story behind that James, happened MTC last year if i am not mistaken.

Nah, that oil leak is a result of the an oil cooler hose splitting a few weeks back. It let go at about 7500rpm and coated the majority of the engine bay in oil. I'm not cleaning it up till I have finished working in the engine bay as I will most likely get more oil in there when I fit and test all these new hoses, plates and fittings for leaks :P
 
Oil leaks are great for rust protection, I don't have any rust where I have an oil leak XD

All this just because a rib on the block is 2mm to close to the lip on the pressure sender....

 
The mechanic in me wanted to just get the grinder out and grind the rib on the block away till it cleared, but that would have required me to remove the exhaust manifold from the head to gear enough clearance to fit the grinder. In that process I probably would break at least one exhaust stud and then spend a day fixing that. So $37 later I have this jumble of fitting and adaptors which will at least let me mount the pressure sensor away from the exhaust a bit.
 
I couldn't return the 30 row cooler due to someone buying the 25 row cooler about 15mins after I bought the 30 row yesterday. I priced up a 15 and a 10 row with the idea of series coolers, but the price was out of my range. So I'll just have to mount it in a dodgy place like in front of the gearbox or on the roof :D

Just a quick FYI, I've had issues with single wire sensors like that not working very well in that sort of configuration unless supplied with a ground reference.  I suspect the sensor is meant to ground itself through the engine when fitted.  Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't  The anodizing on the fittings isn't actually conductive so depends how you mount it.  Given the proximity of all that oil to the exhaust manifold I am surprised your car didn't end up on fire.

I had the same sender as that while back, i just made up a P shape bracket out of aluminium strip, made it the right size so it was tight to push the sensor into it. That worked well and didnt have any ground issues.
Or you use a metal hose clamp and do up tight but not over tight, with a wire under it for an earth.

I'm thinking of a big ring terminal with a spring washer between the NPT fitting on the sender and the brass adaptor and run an earth wire back to the loom. Brendon, I actually want to pick your brains for a bit at the MTC with regards to wiring methods :)

TO DO LIST:
- Finish Flares and cutting wheel arches
- Service whole car (fluids, filters etc etc) - sorta have some new oil in it...
- Fit Oil cooler + adaptor - Apparently I have time for this now...
- Wire up gauges and senders
- Swap street tires to steelies, semi's to grids.
- Paint Steelies white - Ain't nobody got time fo dat.
- Weld up new seat rails and fit bucket seat
- Weld up harness bar and fit harnesses
- Get wheel alignment - Booked in for Friday morning.
- Fit rear braided lines and bleed brakes
- Strip boot carpets, liners and air pipes
- Mount ECU properly to firewall
- Fix ignition coil issues - Problem found, fixing asap.
- Swap over rear left tie rod from SkidDub
- Fit new B pipe and weld up exhaust
- Build and fit 6 speed gearbox - Ain't nobody got time fo dat.
- Make rear camber tops - Don't think these will happen... Might just have to lower the ass enough to get natural camber without getting too much rear bump steer...
- Fix up air scoop with new base seal and reconnect intake pipe
- Setup Launch Control and Flat Shift - Where is that damn clutch switch....

 

Sure no worries

Knocked up the oil hoses

 
Found a spare 8" Spal thermofan from the SlushDub's old intercooler to bolt onto the cooler.