Good info on the valve train.
Are you changing the cams?
Are you putting bigger valves in? I think the 3sgte valves are bigger and the beams bigger again.
I fitted 2jz bronze valve guides and seats into mine so chances are, you do the same.
Are you going with the 3-5 angle valve job?
Are you increasing the ports to make it breathe as they have nothing after 5k rpm.
 
 

B24
Are you changing the cams?
Are you putting bigger valves in? I think the 3sgte valves are bigger and the beams bigger again.
I fitted 2jz bronze valve guides and seats into mine so chances are, you do the same.
Are you going with the 3-5 angle valve job?
Are you increasing the ports to make it breathe as they have nothing after 5k rpm.

Currently looking at regrinding stock (<$500) or new billet (>$500) cams at the moment, hence the look at valve train to avoid flipping a shim out with higher RPM or higher lift cams. If I go regrinds, I've got to build up the extra base material that has been removed, so I'm thinking the 3SGTE S.U.B's would would best with some custom shims made for them. If I can go billet cams, I'll just go straight to the 1ZZFE S.B's since they will be the best solution.
 
I'm not lifting the heads on the motor at all, unless it's impossible to avoid, so I'm not touching the valves, ports or valve seats, as I honestly don't believe there will be any benefit from this when applied to my goals and budget.

I've procrastinated too much the past few weeks and the DownShift Track Battle is only next weekend, I guess I should get the car going >.>
 
The loom is now 80% done, just have to run some new power wires for the COPs loom, test it all back in the car, then put it in some loom sleeve and wrap it back up in tape.. I've managed to remove a bunch of connectors that are not needed, replaced all the melted earth wires, tidied up the wiring and fix a couple of dodgy things, like the fuel pump running off the ignition, now it runs off a fused relay that is controlled by the ECU :D.
 

 
Here's to hoping the problems are now fixed, if not, I might have to go repossess my Paseo for a last minute track car...

Hey, that wiring looks great. Good idea running the relay with the fuel pump. Mine did not have a relay or decent at the 300 which may have caused a 'big bang'..We blew a fuse, cost us a bunch of laps, but didn't go boom.
 
So, when will the V6 be installed in the Adub? Are you making a new wiring harness for it or adapting the factory unit?

The main reason the fuel pump was just jumpered to the ignition was that it's normally controlled by the EFI relay and a switch that is inside the AFM. When I turfed the AFM, I just bridged the two wires together as a temporary thing, which lead to a permanent thing. I also decided to use relays with fuse holders built in, this should make the fuses easier to replace and to identify.
 
The V6, I'm not sure what I'm doing with it yet. I wanted it to be in the spare shell I have, but that shell is in too good of condition to just relegate to "trackhack 2.0". I'd drop it into the TrackDub, but I've spent the last 12-18mths getting the 20V setup and have just about got my 6 speed gearbox together, so I don't want to abandon that so quickly. Keeping the 4A in the car also means it can compete in classes more suited to the car, instead of getting bumped up against some serious HP cars in the over 2.5L class that the V6 would get thrown in.
 
Wiring wise, how I go depends if I buy a MS3Pro ecu or turn my spare MS2 ecu into an MS3X ecu. If I go the MS3Pro I'll build a new loom, if I go MS3X, I'll recycle the current loom and just remove the unused circuits (a lot of them!).

For now, I'm just building up the setup and fitting it all into the shell I have, once it's going, I'll work out what the hell I'm doing :D

Well the TrackDub is alive again. The wiring loom work is has solved most of the issue, however I found the engine loom to body loom plug is a little dodgy. It seems worn or has a loose couple of pins, as twice the car wouldn't start, then when I wriggled the plug it worked. Might have to wrap a ziptie around it for now until I can replace it with a better plug.
 
Will spend the rest of the week prepping for the DownShift Track Battle.

In a desperate need for spare rims, I'm going to let my bogan side out for a bit.

15X8 +0 - 9kg - $85ea
 
Tune in next week when you'll see me joining the Commodore Crew in some peg leggers down main st.

I don't mind them, just a bad offset for my car (ep91). maybe in a 25 I'd be running them.

5SGTE
I don't mind them, just a bad offset for my car (ep91). maybe in a 25 I'd be running them.

Flare those guards :)

For a long while now, I've found the tarnished, faded and brake dust baked color of my rims has just been a little boring.

 
So I decided to the the Nappisan out and make my rims white!
 
Actually, I got the oven cleaner out... They went from this:
and this

 
to this

 
I think oven cleaner worked well because of all these bad things it says not to do with it. Like spray on aluminium...

I think I ignored 7-8 warnings >.>
 
A quick trip to SuperTheif Auto for 4 cans of paint and some masking tape, and I was on my way to sparkly whites!

 
Nek minut!

 
One of them is really ****, I start spraying on the edge of dark, and the humidity went up, so the paint took about 4x longer to dry, I added my coats 15 mins apart (oblivious to the paint not drying) and I ended up with a bunch of runs on one of the rims. So I dug out the winter heater and turned my bathroom into a make shift oven to help the coats set and cure.
 
Will do the remaining two wheels tomorrow night and it should be looking all sexy for the DownShift Track Battle!