• SHOWROOM
  • Knightrous' House of AW11 (and SW20, and ZZW30) (p.16)
2011/03/11 09:53:07
Knightrous
Main reason for that is the mufflers are straight through designed.

I'm essentially using them as 2 small muffler per box.

I could do your idea with this type muffler

But they only come in 2.5" which will be too big and probably too loud.
2011/03/11 12:27:49
RobYob
Ah ok, have you thought about scratch building you own muffler? You could then do whatever tune of resonator and perf + roving you want.
2011/03/30 17:57:47
Knightrous
Time for another little story. This time it's about how I had three AW11's in my driveway and why my AW11 is now engineless :cool:

It all started about a month ago, when I found a cheap AW11 with a 20V Silvertop motor in it, for sale in Brissy for $2k. I sent the advert to a mate on Facebook who was looking for a cheap, first car. Another friend of mine saw the post I put on facebook and decided he was keen to check it out. Long story short, my mate was short on cash, I lent him the extra in agreement that I got the 20V Silvertop out of it and he could have the P Plate legal 16V 4AGE from my MR2.

So we start with a white AW11

With a 4AGE 20V Silvertop


Then we hauled in my red AW11

With a 4AGE 16V


Mandatory Owner in Engine bay photo


Then we moved onto servicing the 16V ready for another 100000km of 4AGE reliability and performance. Made 89.9RWHP when I last had it dyno'd, which isn't bad for 20+ years old!

Stripping the motor down.







Check out the cool little tool I made to remove the valve spring retainers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2-g-PHvUMs

New timing belt, valve stem seals, water pump and cam seals all done


Sump off to swap over to the 20V. My AW11 has a factory oil cooler that drains back into the sump while my mates doesn't


But it turns out the sumps are different...


On to Plan B (Drilling a hole in the sump for the 20V and putting a plug in the 16V sump)


Welding up a broken gearbox mount


20V and 16V motors have their coolant inlet/outlets in opposite ends of the heads. So had to make up a new radiator hose...

to fit where the factory oil cooler live.


Then we started to put the engine back in, so I stopped taking photos and just put the GoPro on timelapse instead :cool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-f-M7lQ2PQ

Then the ever glorious, first start up video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_YUK0xGNt8


Now I just have to find the time to put the 20V Silvertop into my AW11 with the spare close ratio C56 gearbox I have...
2011/03/30 20:19:59
danielk
I saw that car for sale ;) looked like a good bye. Looking forward to seeing you get the 20valve in.
2011/03/04 20:47:16
Knightrous
Another days work brings the 20V conversion ever so close to completion.

I finished off my C56 gearbox early this morning, after having swapped the C52 AW11 center gearbox casing onto the AE101 C56 gearbox.


Then after a few hours of putting the motor on the box and getting it under the car and lifted into place, it looked like this.


Since the exhaust was off the car, I decided to change the rear sway bar over from the stock AW11 swaybar to an SW20 rear sway bar. As you can see in the below photo, the SW20 sway bar is a much bigger bar.



Due to differences between the two cars, the mounts and clamps didn't match up, so I modified them with a hacksaw and hammer.



And this was the finished product

Will see how it goes once I finish the remaining work for the 20V conversion
2011/10/21 04:23:05
worldwalker
Long read, finally got through the whole thread (more interesting than the usual keyboard worrier crap). Very tidy work! I know the SW20s don't have have a problem, but how do the SW20s drive shafts line up with the AW's hubs? Was there much additional work shortening/lengthening them?
 
Did you end up completing this project?
2012/03/03 21:09:35
Knightrous
worldwalker

Long read, finally got through the whole thread (more interesting than the usual keyboard worrier crap). Very tidy work! I know the SW20s don't have have a problem, but how do the SW20s drive shafts line up with the AW's hubs? Was there much additional work shortening/lengthening them?

Did you end up completing this project?

The drive shafts fit with no hassles.
The V6 Project for SkidDub is still in progress, although has stalled due to the 20V conversion with TrackDub. Then I also bought SlushDub (As per sig).
 
Anyway, I haven't posted much in here in a long time, but I've been dumping a fair bit of stuff over at Toymods :P
Falcon made a comment on how he enjoyed my posts with lots of photos of my little mechanical adventures in this thread, so it's time I got around to doing it again!
 
So, as per a couple of posts ago, I swapped my 16V for a 20V out of a mates car. We swapped over the 16V into his car, and everything went peachy. Put the 20V into my car and **** didn't work. Turns out the slight mis-fire that was developing in his car as we brought it home was the ECU dying a slow death with capacitors leaking. After sitting for 3mths untouched, the capacitors leaked into the ECU PCB and damaged it. But hey, that's cool, I wanted to go MegaSquirt anyway! So I through down the cash for a MegaSquirt DIYPNP and picked up some nice 1ZZFE coilpacks at the same time.
 


 
I spent a month or two getting the DIYPNP wired up, and running. Sequential fuel, sequential spark, VVT, VR Dizzy/CAS and ITB mode were all new things to me, so had a few hurr durr moments getting it going. Eventually, I got it going! Took it out for a few laps to see how it went without much tuning, it wasn't bad.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQF3EcFjxSg
 
The next day, I decided to go for a drive and have a go at tuning the maps a bit. Went to chuck a U turn past the local servo and it suddenly stalled, there was a bit of a clatter and a clunk and the car rolled to a stop. The car came home on a tilt tray, the first car I've had in 6 years to come home on one... After a massive 15km of driving since it was put back together, it was now broken. It sat in the drive way for a month or three as I was too busy with work and other hobbies to investigate.
 
But eventually, free time and withdrawals from driving my AW11 kicked in and I pulled the gearbox out of the car. And here is what I found...

The flywheel bolts have sheared, the flywheel stayed on the crank, but both the crank and flywheel facing surfaces were ruined...
 
So I recently bought another flywheel and crank, today I started the process of fixing the 20V :)
 
Been a busy little afternoon in my little patio/workshop (Can't work in Garage due to V6 project and mill/lathe :D)

Pulled the bottom end apart on the 20V



Timing gear was a complete bitch tit and wouldn't shift...



Bearings looked good, and everything was sweet in good condition, so no worries there



Ended up separating my crank/oil pump/timing gear assembly with a big hammer. Now have to buy a 20V oil pump from Wiso :D



New crank goes in!



Followed by the bearings and caps, all torqued to the BGB specs.



Just ordered a new water pump since the currently looks pretty old and I don't want to have to pull the bloody thing back out in 20000kms cause the water pump has **** itself :P
2012/03/04 11:23:16
tralfaz
Its looking really good. Glad you are starting to make progress again. Its hard sometimes with so many interests, and I think about you walking out the door going "eeny, meeny, miney, mo, - to work on which ADub will I go?".
 
Which is the closest to completion at the moment? Keep the pictures coming too because they help all of us understand our cars. Great stuff, and I am sure Falcon agrees.
2012/03/04 13:06:16
Knightrous
tralfaz Which is the closest to completion at the moment? Keep the pictures coming too because they help all of us understand our cars. Great stuff, and I am sure Falcon agrees.

Mechanically, Slushdub is the closest, it needs a new starter motor and a quick check over to make sure it's all good, then see if it starts. However it needs RWC and registration. TrackDub is the mostly to end up back on the road as it still has registration, I just have to reassemble the motor, put the box back on and put the package back in the engine bay. A week end or two's work and TrackDub should be back on the tarmac ready for a cruise.
2012/03/04 17:15:04
Domma_aw11
It better be ready!! Lol need somone to fang with on the next cruise, i know the roads that were going on, i run them alot, bwsides the hwy driving... U can have the front position so i dnt hold u up lol u me and graham can take the rear of the pack and have a run... Already spoke to him about that lol
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