I'm officially saying SW20 drift shafts are stupid...
You can't seperate the damn things like the AW11/Nissan ones. You have to put them into the gearbox them raise the motor into the car! It's retarded

Ginn assed around for 3 hours to get them into place >.>

Awsome work man,,

very nice to see it in there man!!!

http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l59389177

may be a bit too tall on the rear bank and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I cut up both an AW11 gearbox mount and an SW20 mounting plate (the bit that bolts to the box and bolts to the mount).


They fit together like this


Quickly tacked them together


Then welded it up properly


Then mounted it to the chassis and gearbox.


Found some scrap 5mm 5083 aluminium in my scrap bin, too thin for the mount, but thick enough to make a test mount/template with. Will make the final thing out of 10mm 4140 steel plate.



Test mount fitted.


Now the motor is fully supported by mounts and it uses all stock standard mounting points on the chassis and motor/gearbox.

Bought a C56 gearbox for the AW11 today, hoping the better 3rd/4th gears and the 4.3:1 diff will make the car a bit faster at Lakeside. When I was on ebay looking for an LSD, I noticed OBX is making a new version of the ZZW30 LSD that adverts the problems I had putting one in the S54

The OBX LSD now looks like this:


instead of this


I'm also investigating the possibility of installing the ZZW30 LSD into a C52 or C56 gearbox, this should work since the stock 5sp box in the ZZW30 is a C56 box (with an 1ZZ series motor bell housing). So might pick up one of these new versions to see if it fits in the C56, if not, I can keep it as a spare for the S54 in the 1MZW11.

Did a little bit of work on the MZW11 on Sunday. I have to redo the gearbox mount though, it needs to shift 20mm forward (better for the balance too!), clearance from the firewall has become noticeable when both mounts are tightened up correctly.

Supercharger lid just fits, will need to space it 10mm up to clear the 1MZ plenum.



Trimmed and reshaped the firewall a bit to give the plenum a bit more room if the motor rocks a bit under torque.

Should have around 15-20mm of clearance with the gearbox mount redone to the correct position.

Knightrous' Australia Day - A story of success, failure and grinder sparks....

The day started off with the construction of a new gearbox mount to shift the 1MZFE 20mm forward to give more clearance around the boot firewall and stop the plenum form hitting it.

I set forth cutting up the old mount I made, to recover the mount center for the new one. Once recovered, I started milling it flat to use on the new one.


And it was good


Then it was welded to the new gearbox plate


And it was good


So I started on finishing a proper mount for the motor side, instead of the crap aluminium test jig.




And it was good...


Clearance was good... Plenum missed the firewall by around an 1" - 1.5"


Clearance to the engine cover was sweet...


Then I climbed under the car to check the clearance and angle of the sump...



As James May would put it, "OH COCK!"
The ground clearance was barely 3" once the suspension sagged down with the weight of the motor and it could only get lower when hitting bumps. Running over small children and dogs would now put the sump into fubar territory... In my midst of making new mounts, I had totally forgotten that these things are eccentric mounts, so when I rotated the mount for the gearbox 90 degrees and the motor mount 180 degrees, poo poo was now low, wife bashing low...

But, there was still some day light left, and still some inspiration to be had!
The motor mount, this was an easy fix, flip the mount back up the other way.


This restored the clearance back to a decent level


I can now run over small children and dog again without fear of losing my sump
But the motor is now on a bit of a lean...


So I have to chop my gearbox mount up for a second time and remove a good 0.5" - 1" from it to get the gearbox height back to where it should be.... That will be Friday nights job...

Tonight I made a cardboard mock up of a twin muffler, center exit exhaust I've been toying with.



Comparing it along side the SW20T exhaust I have,



Uses the following components:
1x[url='http://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?products_id=2105{13}73&osCsid=a45af984904111b55fe03cdd5fea5f5d']Collector Cone 2 x 51mm 63mm Outlet[/url] - $19.50ea
4x [url='http://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?products_id=1002&osCsid=a45af984904111b55fe03cdd5fea5f5d']Mild Steel Mandrel Bend 51mm OD 2" 180deg [/url]- $19.50ea ($78.00)
2x [url='http://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?products_id=559&osCsid=a45af984904111b55fe03cdd5fea5f5d']Berklee Universal Sports Muffler 350mm long [8'x4'x14' oval] twin 51-51mm[/url] - $110.00ea ($220.00)
+$30.00 shipping

Just gotta pay rego, a new pair of KU36's and then I can think about ordering the parts :o

FUUUUUU... Busy with work and no time to work on SkidDub lately, which makes me rage every time I see that sexy V6 sitting in the engine bay, not going!

Might get around to posting some stuff I've been doing to TrackDub in the last few weeks.

Awesome work,

Question, why run the 180 bends on the twin muffler plan you have? Might be easier just to use them as expansion chambers with a bit of packed mineral wooMig?