Hi All,
 
I am currently in the creation of what is looking like to be two sets 1x GTST and 1x GTR wheels. So I was wondering two things.
 
1. Does someone in Melbourne want to assist with this and you can get yourself a staggered set.
2. What Wheel nuts have the people who have done this use? I have noticed that it looks like both wheels take a Flat face wheel nuts which is pretty obvious since its a factory wheel. I read a thread about someone using tapered nuts but I thought this was something frowned upon? Toyota flat nuts dont fit. :(
 
Thanks for any details.

GTS-T/GTR combo fits these cars perfectly, the only thing is the finish is slightly different between them so if you want to match colours front/rear you'll have to have them painted or powder coated.
 
The flat Toyota wheel nuts won't fit, you'll need tapered nuts. I used Muteki 41886B 12mm x 1.5mm and they fit nicely, can get them on Amazon;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QHR36C/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1
 
You might also want some Hub rings, as the SW20 wheel hub is slightly smaller and won't be snug inside the rim; from memory the measurements for the hub rings is 66.1mm Outside diameter and 60.1 Inner diameter, but it was a while ago and the first set I purchased didn't fit, so might be worth measuring...
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...6a9:g:KNIAAOSwhwdVUcLK

Thanks Xez,
 
Yeah I read up on the painting to make them fully match so that wasn't expected. Also thanks for the sizing on the Hub Ring sizing as this was something I was prepping myself to google, I will google to check.
 
My main concern about the nuts is this.
 

 
Technically speaking I 'should' be using Flat as that's what the GTST/GTR Wheels were originally designed for these. To help with locating and putting the hub bolt central, but I wasn't sure if this is OK do use Tapered on, as people were always saying a few years back that this wasn't OK. etc etc

OK I reread and googled a whole bunch. Didn't know Skylines had tapered nuts. Seems all the cars I have owned have only had flat nuts.

You learn something everyday. Thanks!

Sent from my MI 5s Plus using Tapatalk

GTR/GTST wheels use a tapered nut, and I have noticed that when fitted to the stock SW20 hub there are not many threads engaged when they are tightened up because the studs are a bit too short. This means that for maximum safety, metal hub rings are even more important with these wheels if using the stock length studs.

Thanks Red,
 
I think if thats the case I might as well get longer studs just to make myself feel a bit better.
 
I did a search and saw https://niceproducts.com.au/ thrown in for some studs and someone else mentioned Landcruiser studs?
Not real sure on how much longer I would need. I was thinking maybe an extra 5mm would do.
 
Stock replacement seems to be
S330 - 
It tells me what the long stud is but this is like 73mm in length which is going to be waaaaaaaaaaaaay too long.
 
I am assuming the shoulder is the section that's between the head on the left and the just before the dip before the thread?
 
I saw something like this one. 
S345 - 
Which technically is longer but also has less thread due to the longer shoulder? But if I am thinking right this should give me that extra length that allows the nut to screw further in?
 
But then one that peaks my interest the most.
 
S312 - 
This one just has less should but I think could be offset by the length?
 
Any help or advice or even kind words would be great lol.

According to what I found when I fitted these wheels another 5 mm of stud length would be good, but no more if using closed end nuts.
Maybe get your wheels organised first then check the stud length to verify what I found because some hubs may have longer studs than others.
 
With my Nissan GTR/GTST set I actually got the wheel centers machined with a step to take the hub rings, because I thought the original tapered Nissan centers were an awkward shape for hub rings, and thought what I had done made for a better job.
 
However according to some people on this forum metal hub rings are actually available to do the job without machining if you can find them, but they would be much thinner than mine.
The pic shows my machined GTR wheel center with the aluminum ring.
 

Red is on the money as usual. I have used  " NICE NS381 " studs quite successfully for several different wheels combined with a correct nut for the wheel. These studs are about 6mm longer than the originals as used in the early model cars allowing about 2 threads to protrude through the open type nut as is normally good practise.
They do require plenty of grease and a bit of muscle to install as the knurl appears to be larger.
Generally available for about $ 5 - $7 each.
When removing the original studs please do yourself a favour and don't hit them out with a hammer as the shock loads are transmitted straight to the wheel bearing. Not good practise.

Another thing I should mention is that since the GTR wheels are 16X8 with a 30 mm offset, if you want to run them on the rear of an SW20 using 225/50R16 tyres (as many people do) you may find the rear fenders will need rolling.
On my car those tyres scraped on large bumps, however my car was lowered an inch. 
On the other hand using 225/45R16 tyres that didn't happen.
 
I found no probs on the front with clearance using the GTST wheels with either 205/50R16  or 205/45 R16's  (using the stock struts). These are 16X6.5 with a 40 mm offset. 
Those wheels are a very good option on the front as far as good steering/braking is concerned, because the scrub radius is almost identical compared to using the stock wheels/tyres.

Good point Red. Definitely recommend 225/45R16 on the rear, there's not much clearance to the strut tower either so I've always used that size.  It's the closest to the factory rolling diameter too (at least with Toyo T1-R's), so your speedo will stay accurate.  Fronts have always been 205/50R16...