2010/03/26 08:21:46
B24
A pic of the links
2010/03/26 08:31:53
surok
any reason why those bolts are so long for the rotor hats?
2010/03/26 09:10:28
B24
Lost my hacksaw!
They dont foul on anytthing but may cut these next week when on the hoist
2010/03/26 09:35:41
surok
hah! i thought it odd that you had left at least 100grams of useless weight on each rotor. i would think that you would want to make sure each bolt was the same length and weight to keep everything balanced.
2010/03/26 09:39:32
MR2QIK
Great work! Really looking forward to seeing this thing @ SuperLap. I sincerely wish you all the best.

I often daydream of joining you track car boys, but unfortunately my bank has other ideas :(
2010/03/26 10:04:55
thitch2
Steve the nuts you have used to attach your rotor hats are thay interference nuts?
If they are not i would suggest tie wiring them so there is no chance they can come
undone with heat and the differential in thermal expansion between the rotor and the hat
there may be a potential for the bolts to work their way loose.
Also i can't see any thread proturding through the nylok nut on your tie rod end you may want to
check to make sure there is at least a couple of threads coming through the nut you don't need any more than that however.
The distance between the rose joint and the hub seems in the photo to be a fair bit you may want to measure the distance on the origional and compare not that it will change things greatly bump steer is an issue if these are too short you will not have that issue with that set up.
Another tip depending on how low you are running our set up keep the link pin between the shock and the sway bar as long as possible check once you have the car on the ground that the sway bar does not angle up too much. In extreme cases they can force the sway bar to invert thus causing very scarey handling.
I got a phone call from Ian Luff the other day the DVDs are on the way check out the trailer he has on his web site there is a glimpse of my red beastie in the promo.
Hope this helps mate.
Phil
2010/03/26 10:11:56
surok
this link explains the pins and floating rotors etc..
seems you dont just use normal bolts.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm
2010/03/27 17:48:10
MCT_MR2
Yeah, it is better to use the anti rattle pins (i always knew them as thimbles), but not entirely nessisary. You find more expensive, high end floating rotors use them. They aren't cheap, by any stretch of the imagination.

SOme food for thought though, as there are many different styles of the system:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faq_rotorcomparison.shtml
2010/03/27 21:33:50
B24
quote:
Originally posted by surok

hah! i thought it odd that you had left at least 100grams of useless weight on each rotor. i would think that you would want to make sure each bolt was the same length and weight to keep everything balanced.


As you know this did cross my mind but I need to get the car to the workshop first, then work on these fine adjustments. I also have to have a closer look at other options for bolts as Im not 100% on the ones fitted. Race Brakes stated they use the same set up but need to research a little more.
2010/03/27 21:37:02
B24
quote:
Originally posted by MR2QIK

Great work! Really looking forward to seeing this thing @ SuperLap. I sincerely wish you all the best.

I often daydream of joining you track car boys, but unfortunately my bank has other ideas :(



Thanks mate. Make sure you come and say hello!
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