You should cut a block n crank in half n make a 1.5sgte.

I got some fittings from AN plumbing and some from an aeroquip seller. AN Plumbing did seem very slow over christmas. Only finally got my last item that was on backorder today (aluminium soft-jaws).

Bottom end will be a 5SFE block & crank (journals turned to 3s) with oil squirters fitted. Custom CP pistons (custom pin location, 88mm bore, ceramic coated). ~144mm long carillo pro-h rods w/ forced pin oiling option. Still got a v-max block girdle here I will use as well.

Novel idea, alas, I think you'd run into the same problem as fitting a 2jz, not enough width :)

how much were the carrillo's compared to pauter's of the same spec? any reason you went for them?

you had pauters last time yeh? so offset grinding the crank for 2.3L?

i find it amusing that you've got custom rods for extra displacement and i've got them for standard stroke but customized 5s pistons

did your brass guides go missing? i still need to order mine.

Hrmm, Carrilos were a couple of hundred extra if you added the forced oiling option and also the upgraded rod bolt option to the pauters to bring them up to spec with the carillos. The carrillos were lighter which is what ended up swaying me.

I won't be offset grinding. The rods are lengthened to increase rod to stroke ratio to basically stock 3SGTE (1.6:1). Capacity will be about 2212cc's or thereabouts.

I think the bronze guides are there. I am really not too sure yet.

so how much higher is the pin location compared to 3s and 5s pistons. the 5s were 2.5mm higher than 3s so you've gone an extra how much higher?

Another 1/4" higher then stroker pistons.

5SGTE

You should cut a block n crank in half n make a 1.5sgte.

And then put the GT35 on it when the BW arrives :D
"Toten... I coulda sworn you said the GT35 spooled quickly"

-Totenkopf-

Another 1/4" higher then stroker pistons.

so the pins right up in the oiling groove? i want pics.
 
how does this affect anything(if at all)?

Hi just ace.
 
Yes, its right up in the oiling groove is wider and then they fit a support rail (its just like another ring about 1mm thick that sits below the oil control ring assembly) to help support the oil control ring over the gap. 
 
Some  of the chev people that commonly use pistons with the oil control ring cutting the wristpin bore claim a little more oil consumption which I guess is due to slight flexing of the oil control ring.   IMHO it'd be minimal, as the ring set is only scraping oil on the downward stroke under which circumstances it is fully supported by solid piston material.
 
Here is a picture of the pistons.  I have to get another set as the valve reliefs are not big enough for my valves and recutting the pistons for larger relief will make my compression ratio lower then I'd like.  Have had these for sale for a few weeks, suprised you didn't see the pics in that thread..
 

PS: Howd you go with your squirter installation Jon, I am thinking about maybe using squirters that use a 'banjo bolt' sorta setup, with the bolt acting as the oil gallery as well. 
 
Mate who was going to help me fit them thinks I am wasting my time, so I may just get the mob that do my blocks to do the fitment of some so I don't bother him with something he considers completely unecessary.