why didn't you drain the tank using the plug on the underside first???

im so sick of sw20 fuel tanks, mine has a stupid patch on the side because someone f@cked up making a twin walbro setup..........



(not me)

Haha, I had to grind out part around the opening (the lip around the solid flange) to get the original pickup in. Pulled the pump out now and its starting to oxidise a little after about 6 months or so. Don't really like the idea of the tank rusting out so might spray some cold galv or something on the area before the tank goes back in.

What I should have done was used the pump to drain the tank, but I didn't even think about having to drain it until after I removed the pump and related fuel lines. First up was going to use the drain plug, started cranking it open and fuse was just going nowhere, was no way I was going to be getting it into the couple of 20L drums I had laying around. So I closed it up, turned on the air compressor, stuck the line off the tank that used to go to the pump into the top of one of the drums, and pressurised the tank, the fuel then began siphoning out, sweet as. The first drum filled and I had issues getting the 90 degree -10 hose end out of the top of the drum and into the second drum, as such, the drum overflowed and about 5-10L of fuel went all over me and the drive way, haha, I then got it into the second drum. Altogether I ended up salvaging 30-35L of fuel.

Thats a well worn looking trolley you have there. You must spend more time on your back than the local hooker

Is the tune you mentioned a further tune since your last post on the subject?

Haha, half the wheels are bent on the trolley. Thats what happens when you are dropping engines + gearboxes onto it :D That poo poos heavy.

Nah, the tune I am talking about is the original tune I got a few weeks ago. Its running killer rich at the moment up high. Having a look under the car and the flex pipe is covered in some nice black soot from out of the screamer pipe. I've only covered about 100km in it since tuning, haha. He wanted to see the car again after I fixed up the fueling so it'll be going back for further refinement then. I don't even know if I'll bother playing with the cam shafts. I am happy with the power its making now. I'll get a race gas tune at some point (after I reeducate myself with the drag track) and go do a few passes with some race gas still in the tank and see what it is capable of.

Its time I start spending my cash elsewhere so about the only further modifications it'll see is a rollbar w/ built in harness bar to accept this Takata harness I've got here. I also still need to get a rail for the bride bucket seat that is awaiting fitment.

Well, made a little progress yesterday. Sorted out pump mounting:



There is a brake line running underneath it so I had to space it from the chassis. There wasn't sufficient bolts there currently to pickup some up to bolt it directly to the chassis anyway (well enough bolt holes in the correct location). After using two bolts and some spacers to secure the aluminium mounting plate to the chassis I decided that it was rigid enough. I had a third bolt at my disposal but decided it wasn't necessary. The pre-pump filter was a ba$1ard to fit down there, infact, the line is very slightly kinked as I wanted to turn it up and into the tank area before the forward engine mount so keep it away from any possible heat sources. I don't envisage it causing a drama, as the fuel lines are vastly oversized to begin with, however, if it does, there is some more flexible braid available (convaluted teflon stuff) that I can get if required.

I then made up the pump to rail line&fittings, encorporating the checkvalve and prerail filter. The checkvalve would probably be uneeded anymore because unless the tank is absolutely empty the pump inlet will be below fuel level anyway. I left it there just incase (and saved me buying other fittings).


I think the 90 degree fitting off the check valve and onto the fuel filter is currently hard up against the little air filter on my IACV underneath that is tucked underneath the fuse box, so this may need moving slightly.

Also sorted out somewhere to mount the fuel pressure reg, as it wasn't going The old bracket I dodgied up for it on the other side almost worked, but wasn't tall enough to clear the timing gears, so I hacked up a bit of aluminium and made a new taller bracket to accomodate the regulator. Nothing fancy but it gets the job done.



Things left to do?

Refit the tank, tighten all the fittings and put everything else back in! Oh,then I've still got to cut and polish this thing (and apply some wax) as I've been meaning to do for months, and finish putting the interior back in and removing all my grubby oily hand marks from it, haha.

Should be running again today though which is great.

Went to dyno today for some further refinement in the hope of going to Willowbank tonight. Alas, it was rained out. On the positive side the tuning went relatively well. With a couple of PSI less boost and a much richer AFR the car went within 10 or 15 HP of its output when it was first tuned. After making a few refinements and putting a little more boost back into it (24psi up to around 6500 or 7000rpm, after which mani pressure must overpower the gate as it wont go above 21psi). We added about 150mL of octane booster to a full tank of gas before undertaking the higher boost runs. Whether or not this ended up being required I don't know, due to the drop off in boost in the top end.

Car put down 502.4rwhp like this.

Anyway, further info another time, I am going to bed.

LAG much?

like really, i hear people complain about no boost till 3-4000rpm, but is that full boost? like surely it's not at a standstill till the boost comes on....?

just interested so i can plan my rebuild and have it driveable.

is it really that bad?

Great results! If that's your street tune you're working on, I generally don't like using octane booster when tuning. Obviously in that guise, the detonation threshold goes up, but when the time comes that you run on regular 98RON pump (which almost everyone does), she might start pinging. Ideally you'd use the same fuel as you would everyday, then add octane booster when you foresee some serious fangage (track/drags etc), to add a safety margin. Anyway, good see you're giving that motor a thorough workout.

Awesome stuff James.....sounded a treat goin up the street [;^)] Stupid weather!! Hopefully you get out to the track soon, I wanna see you smash the quickest MR in QLD record [88][8~2]

quote:

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Originally posted by MR2QIK

Great results! If that's your street tune you're working on, I generally don't like using octane booster when tuning. Obviously in that guise, the detonation threshold goes up, but when the time comes that you run on regular 98RON pump (which almost everyone does), she might start pinging. Ideally you'd use the same fuel as you would everyday, then add octane booster when you foresee some serious fangage (track/drags etc), to add a safety margin. Anyway, good see you're giving that motor a thorough workout.

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Yeah, we added a bit of extra octane booster in order to add a bit more boost just for the night at the drags. I have a map for without booster. The amount of booster added would have added about 2 points to the ron rating if the bottle was accurate. Issue come about that the setup wouldn't except any more boost in the high end as is anyway. I'll have to wait till I get my hands on the charts, but the boost was dropping off after 7000 for sure, so peak power was probably only made on 21psi. At the moment I only have the wastegate connected to a single port, I dont have the solenoid connected to boost the top and bottom port to allow more holding pressure. At the moment it only uses the spring to hold it closed (14psi). After which, exhaust mani backpressure will push the gate open.

Whats this mean? I am getting more then 14psi of backpressure in the exhaust manifold. This is probably a factory of both the turbine housing starting to become restrictive and my dodgy exhaust perhaps causing some restriction (it snakes around ALOT). How can I rectify this without changing to a larger turbo? Well, I could connect the wastegate via the other method, where boost pressure is applied to the top of the wastegate, assisting the spring in holding the gate shut. I can also fit a heavier spring (21psi) however I think I'll go with the other boost solenoid hookup method first, as I'd like to have the ability to run <21psi at times.

Anyway, doesn't feel any quicker, however, I account that to the fact it now has rather noticable traction issues in second gear as well, where as before, with a bit of heat in the tyres it seemed to barely hold traction in second on a nice flat surface. Now it heads for the redline.

Anywho, will be nice to get some good weather and get it to the track!