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  • -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) (p.29)
2008/06/10 22:31:44
Tom Tucker
Its a badge of honour getting kicked out of the drags
2008/07/10 08:33:18
Mitcho
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Tucker

Its a badge of honour getting kicked out of the drags



I got kicked out 2 weekends ago for being way too drunk lol ....that and I wanted to fight a security guard [V]
2008/07/10 12:30:29
Apexii22
you get kicked out for running under 10.99 at the drags???
2008/07/10 13:05:00
boozed
quote:
Originally posted by Apexii22

you get kicked out for running under 10.99 at the drags???

If you don't have a roll cage, I believe.
2008/07/10 17:42:11
-Totenkopf-
Yeah think you need a roll bar and 5 point harness. I also believe you need an ANDRA license? Or maybe that was 9.99. I've got a 4 point harness that can very easily become a 5 point but no roll bar yet.
2008/07/10 19:11:22
bustin
Yeah you'd need an ANDRA approved cage. Keeping it street legal becomes a bit more difficult. But people do it so it must be possible. IIRC 140mph+ and you require a parachute, you don't have to use it, but it has to be there.
2008/07/10 19:20:21
WIDEMR
quote:
Originally posted by bustin

Yeah you'd need an ANDRA approved cage. Keeping it street legal becomes a bit more difficult. But people do it so it must be possible. IIRC 140mph+ and you require a parachute, you don't have to use it, but it has to be there.




HA HA if you have a 10 second car (exp a 4cyl mr2) i think street legal issues went out the window along time ago
2008/07/10 19:25:28
-Totenkopf-
I dont expect to go 140mph lol. I was having a brief look I think the other night and for 10.99 in a hardtop monocoque chassis (ie, my MR2) you only need a rollbar (which has to be ANDRA inspected) with side intrusion protection on driver side. For a Targa I think you need a full on cage. Its like alot of CAMS sanctioned events. A hardtop would only require a roll bar, whilst a targa would require a full cage. I think you also need a ballistics blanket (or proper bellhousing shield if commercially available) when running quicker then 11 seconds. Think you also need open wheel nuts (so you can see the amount of thread engaged) when running in the 10's.

If I bust a 10 I'll gladly take a walk :D

2008/07/10 20:08:08
2hardtop
Get Mark to video your runs including catching the timing board.

usually down here (don't know anyone personally have this happen)

If you run fast enough to require more safety gear than you have,
they tell you to leave
and
they do not give you the time slip for that run.best to video them then.

Apexii22-
10.99 and under is considered a 'race car' time and so must have certain extra items fitted for safety reasons.It used to be 11.99.
2008/10/17 20:28:43
-Totenkopf-
Well, got it tuned, made some power, and then I pulled it straight apart again.

After running into fuel vapourlock on a hot day just driving around sedately (took around about 45 mins of driving until the fuel had soaked up enough heat from the interheater (fuel pump) to start causing issues. It gave me the right poo poos that day (35 degree day so the problem became alot more evident) so I parked it in the garage and didn't start it since. I was just going to drive it to work (about 2 mins away) on the Monday following that but when doing my post start checks (hahaha, joys of modified cars)I noticed fuel was weeping a little from the NPT fitting on the end of the fuel rail. This put a nail in the coffin and I just left the car to sit for a week or so.

This week I finally conjured up a little motivation to start pulling things apart. Out came the pump, and the fuel tank (prime opportunity I guess to fit a wolfkatz pickup I've had lying around). I was always a little worried about the depth of the pickup. It was a little hard to get an exact measurement for the length required so I pretty much guessed. After comparing with the depth of the wolfkatz pickup I was fairly spot on!



Ah well, pretty much the entire fuel system is out. I am slowly working out how to mount the tank up on the other side of the chassis. I don't have too much room to play with which makes it all quite difficult. I was going to remove the rail to tighten the leaking fitting on it but I am slowly thinking it'll be easier to do it on the car. To get the rail off I'll need to butcher an allen key (make it nice and short) to get onto the socket cap bolts holding the rail on. Then I am not even sure if it'd come off. Dependant on how far the injectors sit in the head I might have to remove the intake manifold. No thanks.

Some people seem to beach about getting the tank out. First two times I'd removed tanks they were with the engine out, piece of cake. This time the engine was in place so I was thinking I'd have these terrible dramas that everyone experiences. The only dramas I had were getting the fuel out of the tank (it ended up all over me and the ground, haha) cause the tank was 3/4 full. The rest of the process was easy as pie and took very little time.

Ah well, progress is slow, especially when I've only spent an afternoon or two mucking around. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it all sorted and back together and get to go for a drive some time this weekend and then get it back into the old shed so the next door neighbours cat can stop molesting my paint work. I'll have to remember to refill the coolant before I go starting it.

Ah well, at the moment its sitting on stands yet AGAIN. Depressing.

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