2016/05/21 14:16:52
antmcbane
Car has developed issue(s) over the previous few months:
- Car will start a bit rough - sometimes have to crank it twice but the second time it always catches... sort of rumbles up from 300-~1300rpm over a second and then will come down to ~800rpm idle after a minute or so
- Car will vibrate when warmed up at lights (goes away if i press the throttle at all)
- Car will jerk in 1st gear if i go WOT (MUCH worse going uphill)
- Shifts in to second gear will sometimes jerk
- When I go hard on boost a couple of times the car begins to smell like a BP servo
- Fuel economy is ~10km/L which I thought was OK but apparently I should be seeing better considering I don't go WOT all that often
 
The car still feels reaal strong on and off boost though.
 
Have recently changed fuel filter, fixed MAF & engine mounts (thinking the jerking might be a mount issue) & replaced stock BPV which reduced fuel smell considerably, but it's smelly now. Wondering if anybody has any bright ideas - I think it's likely to be a fuel (pressure reg or injector) issue at this stage but I dont want to go willy nilly replacing 100 things until it works properly if anybody has any better ideas.
2016/05/21 14:34:08
track_mr2
Could be ignition related.....would explain hard to start, issues at WOT and fuel smell. If you are getting unburnt fuel because you have a misfire on a cylinder or weak spark in general. I'd start by pulling out spark plugs, see if one is darker then the others, that will tell you if its one cylinder or all cylinders having an issue. Check resistance of ignition leads, check coil, rotor button and distributor cap.
2016/05/21 14:35:37
track_mr2
Actually before all that, pull the fault codes and see if anything is registered, could be cold start injector related also or temp sensor.
2016/05/21 15:38:25
antmcbane
This might sound stupid - but if I don't get any CEL's, can I still get codes in diagnostic mode? And do I need to drive the car around (get it up to temp) before looking?
2016/05/21 15:46:44
antmcbane
Ok without running it etc before it's just continuous pulsing which i take to mean no codes
2016/05/21 16:42:15
antmcbane
Got oil in spark plug wells presumably from leaking VC gasket... thankfully I've got a new one here - Apparently the screws dont tighten enough - is there anywhere I can get the requisite partially threaded bolts?
2016/05/21 19:45:43
5SGTE
What do you mean by 'fixed the maf'?
2016/05/21 19:49:21
antmcbane
Car cut out at a stop sign. Got it home - found ecu light wasn't coming on, disconnected afm, found the car would start. Pulled it out & disassembled, found one of the connections had shorted, resoldered, sprayed with contact cleaner (as it was a bit dirty) and all connections were then within bgb spec and the car ran quite a bit cleaner better than it did before. 
 
Don't worry - nothing spicy.
2016/05/22 09:13:34
Carmikey
As 5SGTE is stating.. MAF is different to an AFM. i thought it was strange also u mentioned maf on a early 3sgte.

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2016/05/22 13:18:24
track_mr2
MAF and AFM are basically the same things. MAP sensors are different and what the Gen3's use.
You were saying your getting oil in the cylinders, have you pulled the dipstick out and checked that oil isn't diluted with petrol making it really thin? If you car over fuels to a huge extent it can bore wash the cylinders and put raw fuel into the oil.
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