Hi guys,
 
Looking at ordering the Prothane bushings "total kit" from twosrus. How difficult is it to swap out the bushes? I know the sway bar ones will be easy but I'm not sure about the others. Which ones will I need a press for?
 
Is Prothane the best bet for my application? The car will be used for daily and track. Comfort is not a big deal. I just put in inverted BC coilovers and it still feels fine so bushes shouldn't phase me. 
 
While I'm at it, is there anything else I should replace?
 
Thanks,
Adrian

Prothane bushes need lube and may become noisy after a while, unlike the stock rubber ones.
Twos'rus kits are ok to fit, but get the right swaybar bushes for your model.
 
The hardest to replace would be the lower control arm bushes.
Some people press the old ones out, others burn them out.
For more info, ask google.
 
If you you are ordering from twos'rus, and haven't already done them, also consider getting ball joints and front tie rod ends, both inner and outer depending on the condition of your old ones.
Also, how good are your swaybar endlinks?

Endlinks are fine. Got new ones with coilovers. 
 
Do the ball joints and tie rod ends give any indication that they're worn and in need of replacement or are they just something you should do? I'm all for replacing worn out parts but I don't want to replace parts for the sake of it.
 
The main reason I'm swapping the bushings is because I had a pretty big hit and the control arm bushes might have gotten squashed or damaged. Figured I'd swap them all out. 
 
The kit lists a few bushing that I'm not sure about. What are the strut bar bushings and the rear control arm to strut bar bushings?

"What are the strut bar bushings and the rear control arm to strut bar bushings? "
Caster rod bushes.
 
The pre '92 cars had different type mounts for the front caster rods, but Twos'rus kits have both types included anyway.
 
With the car raised tie rod ends (inner and outer) can be grasped and felt for slack, as well as ball joints.
But with my car I didn't want to mess around, so I replaced the lot anyway. There was a bit of slack in one so I thought the rest were probably on the way out too.
If your car has taken a hit that is a good reason to do the same.

When was the last time you replaced tie rods and balljoints, rack boots etc?
I got the steering package and Prothane bushings total kit (inc sway bars) from Two's R Us and it felt improvement in response mostly likely cos it's never been replaced.
Make sure you get the right bushings for the rear sway bars cos I got universal ones, even tho they were correct diameter, it was different shape to my stock ones so my mech didn't bother as he would've had to take the cross member out etc too much effort. If I could go back in time I'd order rear sway bar bushings from somewhere else for direct fit for MR2. Old ones were okay anyways.
As the reviews have commented, took my mech about 8-10 hours doing the bushings. Not an easy job lol

Thanks for the advice so far guys. I'll jack up the car and give the tie rods and ball joints a good shake. 
 
I've only had the car for a year or 2 but as far as I'm aware I don't think any of the items Tree mentioned have been replaced by previous owners. I didn't know the cross member had to come out for the sway bar bushings! And I certainly didn't think this would be a 10 hour job! Damn...
 
How noticeable was the difference after swapping everything out? Did it just feel a bit newer and sharper or was it like driving a different/brand new car? I never really wanted to spend much money on this car. I'm basically just spending money on things that make it significantly faster and/or more enjoyable to drive.

Adrian, if your car has taken a hit on the suspension, it could be good insurance to replace stuff like ball joints, etc anyway. Also check your wheel bearings too.
If you are doing this stuff yourself make sure you have good jacking gear, jackstands, etc.
 
WTF, 10 hrs to do the bushings?????
I took about half an hour to do mine, but of course I had the right ones.
Rear X-member only needs to be lowered an inch or so to get at the swaybay bracket nuts. You don't need to take it right off. I left the front bolts in (see pic) but you may need to take the exhaust pipe rear support bracket off.

I forgot to mention that you will have to remove the 3 rear engine mount bolts as well.

Ha Ha my bad, I thought he meant 10 hours to to replace just the rear swaybar bushes. I should have read that more closely.
Yeah, replacing all the bushes is time consuming, especially the lower control arm bushes.
Doing the rear swaybar bushes is fairly easy.

Haha if it took them 10 hours to do the rear sway bushings I would have WTF as well.
Adrian when I replaced the steering components and bushing it felt sharper and more direct - instantaneous control of steering and direction. It wasn't like a brand new different car since the MR2 already handles quite good but it was definately a difference. Ride may have become slightly harder too (from bushings). If I had to compare this to Doritos Salsa dips between Mild, Medium and Hot, I'd say it's about a medium. Plus I think my wheel alignment wasn't holding under hard cornering.
Altogether it costed me bit over 1k parts and labour for this. I know what you mean when trying to keep costs down so you do what you have to do. For my car I had to do this for it to be even worthy on the track lol