Latest addition. Worth 10KW I would say :)

I think the plan of have a cage fitted then restricting your driving to rally and closed circuit is a good idea. It is too easy to loose your license so it(track only) will work out cheaper in the long run.
To fit the cage, you need to remove everything in the cabin. Have the windscreens removed by a professional. It will cost 150 but worth the insurance.
I would recommend acid dip as it will save a lot of mucking around with welding a chassis covered in seam sealant (I can assure you its a very painful exercise welding around this rubbish) but there is a time and $$ penalty so dropping off a car which is a shell at the workshop then picking it up later is a better option. The lastest CAMS spec tube is a lot lighter than the older products so you will draw back some of the weight gain from a full cage.
Seam welding of the strut towers is a must do.
Doubling up on the spot welds around all the windows is also a nice tweak.
 
Race seat subframe is also a must. Best to have this built so its at floor pan level as its pretty easy to raise the seat but impossible to make it lower than the lowest point. If you are over 5'10", you will need it as low as possible to avoid issues with head clearance.
 
 

+1 about race seat subframe and also getting seat as low as possible.
 
Im fairly tall, but needed to get my seat as far back and low as possible mainly due to the floor mounted pedal box and also my helmet has forced air feed from the top, so had to cut out the floor and weld in new panels were it raises up closet to the fuel tank tunnel to make the floor flat, that allowed the seat to go that little bit lower 
 
Your lucky being hardtop, Targas have additional issues with needing to remove targa latches ect to be able to get the roll cage bar as far away from your helmet as possible, even when done, when you add FIA padding your helmet is pretty much touching it.

Getting there.. slowly..

Mishimoto Radiator ordered.
Quick Release Steering Wheel installed.
Floor sound deadening removed.
Roll cage installation next weekend at Walker Chassis. (Earlier than expected due to couple of cancellations).
 
 

So the Radiator arrived yay!
 
The roll cage is nearly done. I went past for a quick look, it looked really good.  I elected to save some money ($900!) and paint it my self though..
 
The bad news is: the rollcage guy was using his angle grinder around the driver's foot well, when its wheel caught on a bunch of wires in the area.. it unplugged the plug from the footwell area, spun the wires around and round and cut some and stripped some..
I went past to have a quick look, it looked bad.. I was in so much pain I didnt wanna look at it.. I just left..
I hate it when extra work is generated for no bloody reason..
 
The wires I'm talking about are basically a bunch that goes from the engine bay to a plug somewhere in the driver's footwell (including few that farm out to the Aurion key barrel (for immobiliser purposes). Anyone (2GR guys?) can tell me what the plug in the driver's foot well is for? (I'm guessing something to do with starting the engine etc) I'll start digging in the MR2 wiring manual when I get the car back, but it's not gonna be straight forward being a 2GR converted.. Although it looked messy, I'm hoping the wire colours can help me re-connect everything up..

Lucas
 
 
The bad news is: the rollcage guy was using his angle grinder around the driver's foot well, when its wheel caught on a bunch of wires in the area.. it unplugged the plug from the footwell area, spun the wires around and round and cut some and stripped some..
I went past to have a quick look, it looked bad.. I was in so much pain I didnt wanna look at it.. I just left..
I hate it when extra work is generated for no bloody reason..
 

 
WTF?? Is this guy a tradesman or a mate helping you out for free? If he's tradesman he'll have insurance. Thats some complicated wiring there and if you are paying a professional to do work for you his stuff up shouldn't ruin your car.
 
Don't worry about hurting his bloody feelings, wires getting ripped out may have come right out of plugs and you could cause major damage if you put them back wrong. He's going to have to fork out for it to get repaired properly.

He mentioned that he'll drop the price to account for the error (I didn't care to ask how much as I was more worried about the damage than dollars)
Unfortunately he's the best roll cage fabricator in Adelaide.. (prefer not to mention business name)

Lucas
He mentioned that he'll drop the price to account for the error (I didn't care to ask how much as I was more worried about the damage than dollars)
Unfortunately he's the best roll cage fabricator in Adelaide.. (prefer not to mention business name)

Well, better get a sparky in to give you a quote.. Can't imagine its going to be cheap. Definitely not something to scrimp on and stuff up.
 
He's got business insurance, he'll have to make a claim. Of course he'll do the right thing, ruining someone's race car wiring is not good for a business reputation. Fixing up unfortunate errors generates happy customers and recommendations. 

The plug may be for the fly by wire pedal.

As Dudeman said above, I would be getting him to fix it for you, his mistake.