ok here is a little start up and idle video to show you guys...
 
http://youtu.be/Hs3Gkl1QuMc
 
 
Also I still have this clutch issue, where its not fully disengaging when hard up against the fire wall...
 
I have adjusted the clutch pedal and put in the extended push rod into the slave cylinder, should I now have to bleed the system again or is there something else I should be trying to do??

You got any shots of the bay wired up?  Curious to have a bit of a peek.

yep, will take some pics for you tomorrow

Clutch disc wasn't damaged on installation?  If you've bent the disc it could cause this issue.

I installed it on the ground so the chance of that is rather slim, as I have done it in the car once before and there was alot more shaking of the gearbox trying to get it to line up when the engine is still in the car. 
 
I have a feeling that its got something to do with the heaviness of the pressure plate, and the system not being able to push it all they way in...
 
I have ordered one of the solid clevis kit to see if that will fix it up, but if not, guess I can try changing the cylinders...

5SGTE - here are some pics of the wiring now...
 
there are still 3 loose wires that are jammed behind the intake manifold to wire in the idle speed control valve
 

Thank you, looks the business

yeah even though they charged me alot and took near 2 and a half months, i have to say, the wiring job they actually did is pretty good...

ok i have found some more wiring problems with this now.... Anyone please help...
 
1. The temp gauge goes up to hot about 10-20secs after the car has started, there is coolant and I am pretty sure that the engine would not get that hot so quick, and on the ecu, its not even getting warm by then. So I am guessing maybe bad earth or the actual signal isnt getting to the gauge???
 
2. I am running the 1zz COP setup with an Adaptronic 440 ecu now. When I start the engine, there is no revs on the taco at all. The extent of my knowledge atm with this, is the thick black wire coming from the fuse box in the rear, but thats as far as I have looked. I also know that since the 1zz setup has the coils on the plugs, I am not running an igniter so will have to get the signal from the ecu somehow i am guessing???
 
Any ideas guys 

beagle_senior
2. I am running the 1zz COP setup with an Adaptronic 440 ecu now. When I start the engine, there is no revs on the taco at all. The extent of my knowledge atm with this, is the thick black wire coming from the fuse box in the rear, but thats as far as I have looked. I also know that since the 1zz setup has the coils on the plugs, I am not running an igniter so will have to get the signal from the ecu somehow i am guessing???

Are you on the Adaptronic forums? That question will already be answered on there somewhere, written by either Andy or myself when I was working for Adaptronic .
The tacho signal normally comes from the standard igniter (black wire sounds familiar), and it is connected to the negative of the ignition coil inside the standard igniter. This means that the tacho expects a voltage 'spike' every time there is a spark, due to back-EMF from the ignition coil. Giving a simple square wave signal to the tacho doesn't work AFAIK. However, the voltage spikes can be simulated using an aux output from the ECU, configured as a tacho output, and pulled up to 12V using a coil of some sort (eg. the coil from a relay where the contacts aren't used). Just take a look on the Adaptronic forums and you will see what I mean. I have a similar setup for the tacho on my sdub with an Adaptonic ECU.