Hi Guys,
How difficult is it to remove the fuel tank on the SW20?
When I did the motor swap the only 2 parts that are from the old fuel system are the intank pump and the fuel cell itself... it seems the fuel pumps have both stopped and i suspect they might be clogged with crap from the fuel tank... I know there is a fresh fuel filter on it and I believe the bosche 044 has it's own filter? but Just after some feedback from other SW20 owners who have done the swap over and their experiences and suggestions. 
 
Thanks in advance.

Fuel tank removal is probably the most PITA job on an MR2. Its doable, but be prepared to swear a lot! The lines running to the tank are deep in the engine bay with barely any room to move. I remember diving head first into the engine bay, legs in the air hanging over the side while trying to undo fittings with 1 hand. Your back burns from holding that position for more than a few minutes, and it seems like your back gives out just before you finally get a hold of that line. Once those are done, the drop is easy.
 
You'll need to remove a lot of things for room. Engine lid, engine side panels, airbox, hot/cold pipe, x brace etc... If you can, take off the dump pipe and turbo - you'll have way more room to work with and it wont be as frustrating. Or better yet, drop the engine and replace a few things while you're at it. And make sure the car is very secure before working on it - you'll be climbing on top and underneath a lot. I used jack stands + 2 wheels stacked on each other on each side incase a stand slipped.

Turbo and DP can be easy removed but it still doesnt sound fun lol... at least i've got a hoist

It's not that bad, even easier with a hoist.
 
My tip is to undo the electric wires for the fuel pump under the ash tray first, before you get dirty/forget

dasic1
It's not that bad, even easier with a hoist.
 
My tip is to undo the electric wires for the fuel pump under the ash tray first, before you get dirty/forget

Agree... I didnt find it that hard, remove console parts first, disconnect elect wires, ENSURE fuel tank is empty first too. (theres a drain plug, but dont start the job with a full tank of fuel).

While it is out also check the heater pipes that are above the tank, as they are known to crack.

Not all of the tanks have the drain plug.

If the tank has been removed before it should be easier and the hoses won't stick. I didn't have too much trouble myself but I've heard if the filler line (in particular) sticks and won't come off (From the back of the engine) it can be a pita to remove.

Ok, thanks for giving some stuff to be aware of and check when it gets tackled... not looking forward to it but at the same time I need to do it so might just throw a whole day at it and get it done...
 
As for the fuel tank itself.. am I correct in thinking these are foam filled fuel tanks?
Is there any special cleaning for these?
 
Also on further troubleshooting only the walbro has seemingly stopped working, as when power is put directly to it theres no noise, the in tank pump still pumps though. I'm just glad it happened while idling instead of on boost.

Their not foam filled, but someone could of had it done.
They have a pretty good pick up design/baffles from factory so not sure it would be necessary.
Not really a need for a external pump anyway. The Walbro E85 450lph will support over 400rwkw 

Ah ok, I knew I never had issues with hard cornering and though it was foam... but it's probably just good design.