Yeah, you could say that. Call up and speak to Glenn. there number is 9687 7118. That's for the one in west melbourne, they have another shop in mitcham, but only the west melbourne shop has a dyno.
 
Next on the agenda is to get a rail and fit a fixed back bride seat that i was donated out of a friends race car, and i was looking the other day, and the evo throttle body has the same bolt spacing as the stock throttle body. I'm looking at running it, but there is a few issues i will have to sort out to run it, but at the moment the stock throttle body and idle control are causing me a few issues with the idle speed.
 
 

Hey all,
I'm really slack at updating this. Since my last update, the car went back on the dyno with the WTA setup, with the inlet temps now under control, we ended up on 135rwkw, and for ****s and giggles, the rev limit was set at 9,000rpm.
 
Now ever since the car saw over about 7,500rpm on 10psi, the supercharger whine had a really bad whine any time it got into that area of the rev range. Unfortunately, after some spirited driving at the start of the year, the supercharger decided to call it quits. As i was pushing as far as the sc12 seemed happy, i decided to bite the bullet and change to a turbo setup. I considered a few supercharging options (sprintex, rotrex) but the linear delivery just really doesn't make an enjoyable driving experience for me, if i wanted the power, torque and delivery of a v6, i would have put one in there.
 
First port of call was to find a suitable manifold. As the options are very limited off the shelf, i got a manifold custom made to suit my needs.


(don't get excited, that turbo is not going anywhere near my engine!!)
As i have already outlaid on building a nice stainless exhaust for my car, and love the note, i have decided to run an external gate. It makes life easier for packaging, and with vented gases not going into exhaust, i can get away with keeping the exhaust 2.5 inch, and will at a later date, re-design the exhaust.
 

Changing to a turbo setup, means stripping down the entire intake side of the engine, and switching to a 4age intake setup. For those of you that don't know about this process, there are a few extra bits that need to be changed. The outlet block on the side of the head, and the water bypass hose under the manifold (not the one that connects to the water pump) need to be changed, and seeing as i have already deleted my a/c, i will be relocating the alternator under the intake manifold, which will mean deleting the external voltage reg from the gze alternator and switching to the 4age alternator setup. The added bonus of this is i will only have one accessory belt.
 
As i did not want to run TVIS, i decided to get a delete plate. I ordered one from T3 in the states, which arrived ages ago, and i only got around to opening the box today - they sent the wrong one
As they sent the smallport<->bigport adapter, there was a bit of material to remove, as i can't be bothered sending it back. As one of the few things i don't have access to is a mill, i decided to do it the good old fashioned way.

Firstly i bolted a gasket down, and using a paint marker, i worked out the aera to be removed

Here i have my assortment of tools to get this done

Firstly i ground the bulk down with a die grinder and alloy porting bit. One i was close, i switched to a curved file, to get close, and make sure the wall of the port was flat. One i was happy with the shape, i buffed it down with a flapper wheel to smooth out the surface. As you can see, it turned out good enough for 5 minutes of work.

All done. I think it took longer to clean up the filings than anything else.
 

All mocked up with the manifold, which i gave a quick lick of paint, and the throttle body - which you may notice isn't from a toyota. Spending a lot of my day job working on evo's, i always thought the bolt spacing looked near identical. Seeing as the opportunity presented itself, i tested it out, and the bolt spacing is identical. HOWEVER, there is a lot of messing around to make this setup work. The throttle blade is bigger, so the area behind the throttle body needs to be opened up. Next is some of the passages behind the throttle will get blocked off, and there is some more messing around there. But my logic is:
*Bigger throttle blade
*Modern idle control valve, and an idle speed screw that is effective (sorry i hate the idle control valve toyota used)
*Evo TPS uses same connector as toyota TPS (no rewiring or buying another connector)
* The whole setup was free
 

Unfortunately, not everything is simple. The TPS hits on the lower mounting tab for the engine lid latch.  Due to how i plan on running everything, i may end up modifying the latch to clear, but in the mean time, i have bolted the throttle body sideways to keep the manifold sealed.
 
So a bit more work to do, i have to make the previously mentioned changes to water lines and alternator, and i will also unpick the loom, and remove the surplus wires to clean up the engine bay, if I'm feeling adventurous, i might even do a slight wiring tuck. As there is so much involved in the conversion, i will convert the intake side first and drive the car around n/a. It will also be interesting to see how much power the engine will make without the load of the supercharger.
 
Hopefully i can keep a regular pace on getting work done on the car, and keep this space updated.

Interesting about the Evo throttle body. Thats the sort of thing you would never think could work.

Do you happen to have that pulley bros pulley sitting around by any chance? I finally decided to bite the bullet, but found out that the company had stopped trading only recently (really, i should've seen that coming). I don't particularly want to go with a new crank pulley as that requires faffing about with improvised tensioners and dodgy keyways, and there's something special about 4agze parts which come from the gold coast! :p
 
Shame that the sc12 carked it, but it was working hard at those revs! Still, the turbo should be a better fit for your runs to 9k, and will generate more go the whole way there.

Can't wait to see how this goes. Been wanting to turbo my GZE for a while now.

Okay, i finally have a chance to update some bits and pieces.....
 
Unfortunantley due to world time attack, snowy mountains 1000 and a boat load of other events, sprints, track days and test sessions, the adub had been pushed way back in the priority list.
 
I managed to find about 4 days to work on the car, to get it up and running.
 
Firstly was the turbo. My GCG rep finally got back to me with a borg warner EFR turbo. Unfortunantley, i was accidentally sent a 6758, which was oh so tempting to use, but i decided i would prefer to have a bit better response, and got a 6258EFR
 

 

 
It's a pretty thing, very very heavy, and beautifully made. After the turbo, i decided to change the manifold i had to run, as the other one had been mocked up on a corolla as i later found out, and did not clear the firewall. So after trying a few options, with less than acceptable responses (will not name names), i came across brae auto fab out in shepparton. He is a brilliant guy, very quick to respond, and more than helpful. He made up a beautiful manifold to fit my efr turbo up. I did not actually clear the dizzy at first, but when i informed him with pictures of the issue, he got it back, altered it and returned it straight away!! At this point, i also need to thank zeroGK, as he had already approached Brenton, and had the first manifold made. After doing mine, he has now altered the jig to suit a stock dizzy setup. If there are any adub owners out there that want a well made steampipe manifold that will fit, look this guy up.
 

 

 
In the days leading up to world time attack, i was able to pick up a few bits and pieces i needed, and a spare motor to do mock up on (nobody likes doing turbo mock ups on an adub in the car......). I picked up all the parts from MK1corse, and Lindsay, i have to thank you so much, your old motor didn't go to waste, it saved me a good day of work having an engine to mock up on.
 

 
Now, i'm sure there are a million better ways of getting the exhaust done with better flow etc, but i needed to get the car going ASAP, so i knocked it up as quickly and easily as possible. As i needed it to be tight due to space restraints, but wanted it to flow well, i needed to do the start of the dump pipe in a lobster tail configuration. It's far from my best effort, but as i don't get paid to work on my own car, i didn't clear and prep each section as well as i can.
 

 
Space was a bit tight when it came to fit up, the oild filter has to be relocated, and one of the metal water lines has to be moved to clear the compressor housing, but everything fit pretty well.
 

 
The exhaust i finished up, yes its too long, yes it is comprimised, but i will attend to it at a later date. the rear section is still 2.5inch, which i will change to 3, and the varex will not be needed, as the turbo shuts up the car unbeleiveably.
 

 

 
 

I also managed to
- make a hybrid GE/GZE alternator (GE front cover with rotated stator, GZE internals, as i was to lazy to rewire to suit internal reg)
- Fit stock evo injectors and reterminate my loom to suit
- Rewire to suit evo TPS and idle stepper motor
- Make a custom throttle cable braket and modify evo cable guide to suit MR2 cable
- Change throttle cable (thanks MK1corse)
- Change and rewire WTA cooler setup to suit davis craig elec water pump
- Relocate cooler and make piping to suit

- Make an intake pipe (3.5 inch alloy, never doing it again, and have to redesign)
- Remake oil cooler lines
- Tidy wiring
- Change water pipes and outlet to suit n/a manifold
- setup an oil drain that doesn't flood turbo or leak
- setup and get car wiring
 
 
I managed to get it on the dyno on wednesday night, and i have to say, it looked promising at first. on gate pressure, the turbo was making a bar of boost by 3,500rpm. After that the actuator had bed in and started blowing open. Full boost quickly moved to 5,200rpm and full boost became just over 13psi. A quick adjustment to the preload while the car was done, and it rectified the problem for a few runs, before the wastegate arm jammed up, and the wastegate stopped sealing correctly. So the early results so far are 158rwkw @ 13psi with the timing not peaked and aforementioned wastegate issues.
 
I had a spare 30 mins tonight to adjust the actuator and take it for a quick test. The problem with the wastegate setup on these turbos it the comp cover is so much wider than the turbine housing, the angle is quite extreme, and due to the load it places on the pivot, it jams up. So i overdrilled the hole and readjusted. It consistantly seals correctly, but the preload is off, as i am hitting my 1.5 bar boost cut at 4,000rm.
 
So i have a bit more work to do, and have to relocate my air temp sensor before i start leaning on it. But hopefully, once the actuator is sorted out, the air temp sensor is relocated, and i revise the intake a little bit, the aim is for 200rwkw @ anywhere up to about 18psi.

Great update.

Wakefield?

What a great build thread. Looks like quite the weapon.
The low mount turbo looks the goods but dont forget to fit a duct to force the air under the car, up into the turbo as the SW20 3sgte has. It helps a lot with managing engine bay temps.
 

Ah steve it's quite funny you mentioned about the engine bay temps....

So i finally adjusted the actuator up to something acceptable, and found a chance to get my car back on the dyno. The temporary air filter was switched out for just a drift pod for the time being and the car was strapped up. Some light load cam surge issues got tuned out, and high load low revs had to be fixed up, as the turbo wasn't spooling up with the wastegate not sealing.
 
The end result was 190rwkw on a wavy 16psi. We weren't prepared to push our luck with timing or boost, and as my pod filter at present sits above my oil cooler, pre turbo inlet temps are probably hotter than the intake temps. Will post up a graph some time soon. Much too my dismay, it is a very linear power graph, due to the large ports in my cylinder head (engine shop went way too far) and the cams being a touch on the large side.
 
We finished up doing high load/ high rpm mixtures and timing, and unfortunately temps got a little high with the lack of air circulation in the engine bay, and this happened....
 

 
I will be taking B24's advice and putting a scoop under the car to force air up at the turbo, i will be controlling the engine bay fan with the motec from now on, and i will add another fan to the engine lid to extract air out the engine bay. Interestingly enough the car didn't miss a beat, and we finished up the tuning and did another two full power runs and i drove the car home, without a hint of missfiring! not a bad effort!
 

Today i quickly changed the cap over, the extent of the heat damage is mental, i can't believe the car still ran, and the rotor button was completely unaffected. Plans are to sort out the cooling, i still have some rear suspension parts to fit up, and just enjoy driving the thing for a while before i do much else.