2010/06/30 13:25:14
Knightrous
quote:
Originally posted by nuk1ear

has anyone used these on a 3sgte? Are there many people that can dyno tune them to get a more accurate tune (can only go so far on the road). Or should i save the risk and get a more common/generally used ecu like a haltech or adaptronic etc.



If your looking for a plug and play ECU and your not going to tune it yourself, just go buy a Haltec or Adaptronic. They will cost you an ass load more, but you won't have to lift a finger.

The Mega Squirt is a quality solution at a very affordable price, but you have to do the leg work yourself. It's a tough process at times and can really wear on you when things should just work, but you learn so much more about the car. It's rewarding when your blasting through the mountains listening to the motor running on YOUR own tune which is running in an ECU that YOU assembled and installed
2010/06/30 14:25:23
nuk1ear
im not after plug and play. My microtech was installed by a retard who munted the entire loom. So ill be starting from scratch. Im good with electronics and built many different components before, hence my interest. What i was asking, is how much more modification do i need to do in regards to sensors, compared to what is on the vehicle to run a microtech (ie, no AFM and no IAT sensor i dont think, uses stock dizzy pickups for position etc).

On top of that, i dunno but can you get a good tune by just road tuning? I mean, i would like to know how much power the vehicle ends up putting down too. Not only that, isn't dyno tuning the best way to get a good final tune? Im all in for diy as much as i can, im a tight ass but mostly i love doing everything myself!
2010/06/30 20:44:29
stuka
dyno tuning would be preferable and is the norm as the tuner can monitor the a/f ratio, unless of course you a wideband such innovate.
2010/01/07 10:23:24
Knightrous
Since your keen to get your hands dirty, it sounds like the MegaSquirt is a good option for you

I'm not too clued up on the 3S and SW20 setups, however I'm pretty sure they used the Toyota VAST system, which a 4-1 (or 24-1) trigger in the dizzy is filtered by the igniter and a simple IGt signal is sent back to the ECU. You use this signal for tach input on the MS, then you can either drive the igniter for spark (Can't run spark cut limiter), or run a wire to the coil directly and power it off the megasquirt. I run the VAST setup on my 4A with good results. You can use the VR sensor pickup in the dizzy itself, but I have no experience with this, I took the lazy, easiest way of getting it running, 1 wire, no hassles

Sensors you just use the factory items (TPS, Temps, Oil), you will need an IAT though, any generic GM unit from superthief will work with the megasquirt though. However, I'd advise to ditch the standard O2 and buy an LC-1 Wideband for $255. Good for tuning and better for keeping an eye on the motor.

I've only road tuned my megasquirt, but it was certainly good enough for daily duties and thrashing as well. If your chasing power and performance, you really do need to get it onto a dyno though. However, I was happy with my DIY tune for 7000+km

Few threads from MSExtra forums to help you out:

For 3S temp sensor calibration information, check this thread: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=143822#p143822

Someone doing a 3SGTE Caldina MS2 build: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=35601&hilit=3s
Thread issues about CAS sync problems: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=35938&hilit=3s (might help you if you run into problems)
General nippondenso (Toyota) CAS information/setup: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Nippon.htm
2010/01/07 13:54:43
Domma_aw11
Wow, good info Aaron... i can't wait to get the ms2!!!
2010/07/27 21:31:30
nuk1ear
isn't there a MS3 board available now?
2010/07/27 23:22:36
Knightrous
MS3 is available in small quantities right now, each batch so far has been sold out in a few days, sometimes in the matter of hours.
Fair few people are hanging out for the MS3X boards (Myself included) which is an expansion board for the MS3.
2011/02/11 17:03:18
Knightrous
Just through I'd throw up some information on the DIY Plug N Play (DIYPNP) from DIYAutoTune
quote:

What is a DIYPNP?


The DIYPNP is a Do-It-Yourself Plug-N-Play Engine Management System. It is made up of three main pieces that allow for an incredibly flexible and modular system for building a plug-n-play EMS for a plethora of vehicles.


MicroSquirt Module- At it's core, the DIYPNP is based on the MicroSquirt Module which is a MegaSquirt-II Processor based ECU on a credit card sized PCB. The DIY element of this EMS comes from the fact that you assemble it yourself from a kit of components, soldering the unit together and then adding wire jumpers to route the signals to the connectorboard to match the needs of your car. The assembly is not nearly as complex or time consuming as a standard MegaSquirt ECU kit assembly, there are fewer components and all components are sized so that they are easy to solder (no tiny transistors here).

Mainboard- We've taken the awesome capability of the MicroSquirt Module, combined with the MS2/Extra firmware, and built out a mainboard that adds a very nice featureset including pretty much everything we get asked about on a daily basis by our customers. You've got dual ignition inputs and up to four ignition outputs (logic level, allowing for Coil-On-Plug for up to a 4cyl engine or wasted-spark ignition for up to a V8 engine. High current ignition outputs are an optional upgrade) Distributor based ignition is of course supported as well. Knock control, boost control, 4 spare inputs and 4 spare outputs for driving fans, intake butterflies, on/off variable cam systems, whatever else you can imagine. There are more features too, check the features and documentation pages for full details.
Note-- All of the primary Inputs/Outputs are brought out along the edge of the mainboard that lines up next to the connector board.
All common ignition input/output pullups are as simple as they could be with a resistor network in place ready to setup.

Connector Board- And then the last piece you need to know about is the connector board. This is a small PCB that slides into the same slot as the mainboard and lines up right next to it. It's usually not much more than a breakout board for an OEM style connector that often fits a stack of vehicles as many of these connectors were used by multiple manufacturers, and often on multiple vehicles/engine families at each manufacturer. Sometimes we may fit an extra circuit on the connectorboard if we've found that the vehicles that use that connector typically need a particular circuit. An example of this is the Bosch Motronic 55pin connectorboard, which hosts a circuit to control the 3-wire IAC valve that is common in vehicles that use this connector.


So after you handle minimal assembly on the mainboard, you do a bit of research on the harness pinout in your vehicle (or download a spreadsheet of pre-researched info and just check it for accuracy in your application), and you use this info to run a handful of jumper wires from the mainboard to the proper breakout pins on the connectorboard bringing the signals in/out on the proper pins on the connector. This is what makes the DIYPNP so easy to apply to such a broad range of vehicles. It's basically a set of PNP EMS building blocks, with awesome results.


You want boost control, run a jumper to the input and to the output. Turn it on the in the software and tune it.


You want to convert your engine from it's stock distributor to wasted spark or COP, add the proper crank/cam trigger wheels to the engine (you might have what you need already inside of that old distributor) and wire those sensors up to the DIYPNP, then wire the ignition outputs up to your coils, set your timing and tune it.

The flexibility is massive. And if we didn't include a circuit you want, we've got two large proto areas on the mainboard (one is under the uS Module) and in some cases there is a third proto area on the connector board if we had the extra space.


The following three DIYPNP models will work for MR2's and a bunch of other cars.[url='http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-nippon-denso-42pin-unassembled-kit-p-383.html']DIYPNP Nippon Denso 42pin Unassembled Kit[/url] 4AGE / 5SFE - AU$450 shipped!
[url='http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-nippon-denso-52pin-unassembled-kit-p-390.html']DIYPNP Nippon Denso 52pin Unassembled Kit[/url] 4AGZE / 3SGTE - AU$450 shipped!
[url='http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-nippon-denso-76pin-unassembled-kit-p-384.html']DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit[/url] 4AGE 20V / 3SGTE / 5SFE - AU$450 shipped!

Video on how it all goes together [url='http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1LmGBa0tI4']HERE[/url]
Even though it is still a DIY kit, it's a lot easier then assembling a MegaSquirt 2 Kit.

Anyway, thought I'd throw it out there for everyone, another fully featured ECU option for less then the price of a low-mid range piggy back
2011/02/12 06:48:13
old_mr2
Hi

I am looking for a jumper sheet for N52 DIYPNP to suit 4agze aw11.

Same as below, but for GZE.

Knightrous can you help?
2011/02/12 22:48:27
Knightrous
Hey Old, what year model is your GZE?
Also, are your going to be running the DLI spark setup or single coil + dizzy?
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