Bought a '90 sw20 Targa N/A, a little while ago when, busted a diff, and replaced the engine / diff with a nice deal I found. Now I have recently bought myself a '90 Turbo hardtop one.
 
I am having issues finding reliable sources for water pump configuration.... some say that the 3sge water pump is not compatible with the 3sgTe due to one having 3 mounting points (guessing from the pump to the casing) and the other having 4 ... others say there is a difference with air-con or not (can't see how, maybe space wise, but still hard to imagine).
 
Picked up a GMB water pump from Repco this arvy, Part #WP1090, searched for this part, makes no mention of turbo, does say for MR2 sw20 3sge, and Celica ST162 / ST202. Kept reading and found that GMB also make a turbo water pump, #WP3041, however, it lists turbo, and non turbo plus both celica's as a fit ... The only way that I could see this working would be if the Turbo pumps fins where aligned to push more water cooling the turbo engine better thus also being fine for a non-turbo, and a non turbo one may not push enough for a turbo model.
 
Does anyone know for certain, what the difference is if any?
 
Do not want to install a non turbo water pump, if it's not going to keep her cool.

According to ToyoDIY, the different between the two is the rear housing that bolts to the block. There is a difference in part numbers listed by Toyota.
 
http://www.toyodiy.com/pa...2_SW20-ACMQF_1601.html
3SGE = 16100-79125 (89-90) or 16100-79175 (91-98)
 
http://www.toyodiy.com/pa...2_SW20-ACMZZ_1601.html
3SGTE = 16100-79126
 
However, the front half of the water pump + gasket (what most people buy and replace) is the same part on both motors, 16110-79115.

Ahhh.. ok, still has me confused as to why there would be 2 different part numbers for the same "front" plate, including a turbo and non turbo version / numbers, but hey, what does make sense these days...
 
Cheers for the input, Ill go ahead and install it this weekend ... I hope.

Update.... replaced the water pump last night (what a fun job that is), took it for a test drive, temp skyrocketed (not too far but close enough) figured I may have had an air bubble, so this morning I re-bleed the system... went for another drive ... all seemed fine, staying at normal operating temp etc etc... pulled up with car running to look for water leaks .... then turned car off to check again (more pressure after car is off), all good no leaks, felt the radiator piping and radiator top .... both stone cold... (Hmmmm) both pipes to radiator and the radiator itself both stone cold... once I took off, temp started to rise again... jammed on the heater to try and reduce temps some... heater was cold to start (earlier on in the drive it was hot) got hot though and did bring temps back down, get home (didn't drive far btw just down the road enough to hit boost a few times) felt radiator pipes again .... all hot...and temp normal. Grrr ... Only thing I can think of would be a sticky thermostat.
 
Any thoughts?

 

Absy
Ahhh.. ok, still has me confused as to why there would be 2 different part numbers for the same "front" plate, including a turbo and non turbo version / numbers, but hey, what does make sense these days...

As Knightrous says the front part of the pump is the same for '90 model turbos and NA's.
It is the back part that has different part numbers.
 
Can be tricky to bleed the system properly on an MR2 and takes time and patience.  Did you follow the service manual exactly?
Anyway should be easy to fit a new thermostat to see if that helps, but I would suggest using a genuine Toyota one.
 
 
 
 

I may remove the old one, and test it... unsure just yet ... weird symptoms.

hi all is there a how to for a water pump replacement on this site anywhere? do i have to remove the engine?
 
Regards
 
Mick G

I opted to leave the engine in and tilt it gown enough to work on by undoing 3 of the engine mounts but be warned, it is very damn tight, if you have the equipment it would actually be a bit quicker to do it out or even just to drop it below the engine bay I believe.

Usual story - almost any job is possible with the engine in place if it goes right, but it's when the job throws a curve ball that you wish you'd dropped the lump.  "Dropping the lump" is a job that's quite easy to do IF you have access to either a two post hoist or a forklift.  It can also be accomplished with the use of a jack, good jack stands and a super size box of patience.
 
And if I may I'll echo the "have you bled the system properly" thought further up the page.  Work on the assumption that you haven't, so remove and test the thermostat (or just replace it if it looks in any way suspect) then work through the bleed process again.  Follow this up with frequent checks of the coolant level.
 
Cooling system issues - almost as much fun as charging systems.