Thought it was about time i put this up here, I only started this build almost a year ago and its been a very slow progression so far.
Anyways the car:

And the "Complete supercharger kit that came off the sellers corolla" : 
After a lot of hunting on the web trying to find the install instructions that were not included i ended up getting them but could only find them in Japanese, Google was able to translate it but deleted all the photos in the process.
 
Anyways as i had pictures i could run off i started to make sure everything was there and i discovered that two brackets, all the wiring harness but 2 were missing and the fuel management piggyback that came with it was DOA (not like i planned o using it anyways) and other various pieces were missing too.
 
A few weeks later and lots of welding, grinding and macgyvering i had it in and was getting ready to take it to the tuner i had been using
 
Before:
 
After:
 
So on the first dyno attempt the stock ECU prevented the tuner from tuning the uni chip properly due to the Uni Q not having a injector driver and not having 100% control of the injectors, despite the fact I was meant to actually have a Uni Q plus...
 
After lots of saving i purchased a AEM EMS4, a AEM wide band fail safe, DeatschWerks 440cc injectors( the charger was suppose to work on a completely stock corolla) and a AEM water/Meth injection for cooling the intake charged (can't inter-cool)
 
The second dyno attempt was done after a new heavy duty clutch was installed with the help of Joel but i had electrical gremlins half way through the tune with my battery light coming on, i also found out that despite this supercharger kit being designed to only make a max boost pressure of 7.25 (.5 bar), on my car it reached 9.9 psi??? The boost was confirmed by both the EMS4 telemetry and the AEM fail safe built in boost meter, I used the pullies that came with the kit and the charger itself has a electromagnetic clutch pulley so it can't be changed without a lot of work going into it.
 
YouTube video of the car running on EMS4, it it still running quite rich but drivable here
That whine is addictive :D
 
Not long after that video I had to take the entire supercharger assembly out to get to my alternator out to test it as the battery light had started to come on a lot.
All but the rectifier was within spec with the rectifier not having continuity between the B+ pole and any of the screws that connect to the copper windings
 
Charger out:
 
Charger in:
 
I purchased a re-manufactured 2zz alternator from denso hoping that it would fix the issue but sadly after reinstalling everything the battery light still on.
I tested the fuses and the were fine and the fuse holders are passing a current.
It has again been removed and i gave it to my works auto electrician to have a look at to see if the alternator itself is the issue or if something was damaged during the weekend when the motor and transmission was dropped to swap the clutch as the issue did start to arise not long after that.
Hopefully i get news about the alternator soon and i can start to figure out what is causing the alternator not to energize and charge like it should

So the alternator checked out to be fine, and I've retested all wires and fuse holders that are associated with the alternator, my next guess is that parhaps there is a break somewhere in the B+ wire.
Am i able to test the B+ wire for power like any other wire and it will show the batteries current volts or do i have to have the alternator running???

Following!
2ZZ ?
Had to build a box in rear of cabin where soft-top was?
Is this a race only vehicle?

Like just about all other MR2 spyders that have positive displacement blower put into them i had to cut a bit of the firewall back but due to how the blitz kit sits compared to the TRD sits i had to cut a large chunk of fire wall out and then my neighbor and i welded up that box to fit over it.
The soft top got slashed a few days after i got the actual kit and as i have a hardtop and it would of been easier to install without the softtop i removed it and cut the frame up to allow the hardtop to be installed.
Its still the factory 1zz-fed motor but now that my boost gauge is reading just below 10psi at about 4000rpm (ems4 not tuned any enough to go past 4000rpm) I might have to look at geting forged conrods and maybe lower compression pistons.
The car is road registered but is due to be engineered as it also has a roll cage too

It appears that the B+ wire and only the B+ wire has damaged as i registered 7-8 mega ohms of resistance and a 3 volt difference which only occurred when the B+ wire was connected to the alternator, it also failed to turn on the light tester
I cut the old connectors off and used some 4 gauge wire to make a new B+ wire and it appears to be charging the battery and powering the car, took it for a 100km drive and the light didn't come one once!
Now i just need to save to get the rego paid (mid November) then order some kuhmo ku36 for all 4 tires and then hopefully third times a charm with the tuning and actually seeing what it can do.

Glad to hear it's Sorted

I just glad its hopefully sorted but the results sofar are promising.
Its odd the problem only became apparent when the B+ wire was connected to the alternator

Love it

Well turns out that the original bad alternator and damaged B+ lead were the cause of a few other issues like the air con constantly blowing its 20a fuse and the insanely lumply idle the car had but unfortunately it still has the battery light only on startup sometimes.
If i turn the car off then back on 2-5 times it will eventually turn the damn light off and be good for the rest of the day.
Looks like more looking at the 4 wires is needed...

Could it be a grounding issue? Missing wire(s) from engine to chassis or dodgy battery negative lead or something?
 
I know SW20s do funny things when certain ground wires are not connected (melt throttle cables haha)