also can anyone tell me there experiences with the fidanza flywheel? and do i use 4age arp flywheel bolts to attach the fidanza onto the 1mz ?

How much is a 2gr looking at ? And who can do it properly ? There's not much informations about the aus aurion looming, I'ves tried doing resource, but I always came up flat.

I don't even think Australia has the 2mz motor. And in a P plate so no turbo, that's why my current motor is going out.

My current set up in the 3sgte is gt2806r, 570 injectors, 264 cams, greddy emanage ecu and everything is 3' starting from the dump pipe.

i live in sydney and i havent found anyone who has done the swap before. ive asked other people on the forum where they have done it... called up guys on carsales who has the car, but no one seems to want to answer who done it for them or where they got it done... they say one thing to me "twobrutal" ive read 23049284302934 post on that site already, every post is different to the other and most post dont even walk you through the swap process.

all i know is
- u need 97+ donor car (easiest option, i got a 99 camry in manual)
- best starting platform is the 93+ turbo due to suspension and turbo hubs, axles, shift linkage, radiator and gearbox (i have a 90 turbo)
- upgrade your fuel pump (i already have a walbro 255)
- upgrade your brakes (optional, i already have bigger slotted breaks and bigger calipers from a rev3 and braided break lines) 
- 4v6 or wood sport mount (i got a brand new 4v6, it was $100 off a guy from the forum) 
- looms need to be spliced together
- fidanza flywheel using 4age fly bolts (flywheel is an option not required)
- return fuel rail from a 3vz or a 95-97 1mz
- FPR to adjust the fuel pressure to 50psi (i already had one install in my 3sgte)
- v6 bellhousing should be swapped into the turbo tranny or you miss one or two bolts
- its recommended you relocate your oil filter.

then there is a heap of post talking about relocating brake lines, clutch lines, changing your water pipes, machining the passanger side axle.
i havent found many that talks about getting around the immobiliser (without using a aftermarket ecu... i want to get it engineered and insured properly) or wiring diagrams or problems that people run into while doing the swap other then gearbox not lining up. no talks about repositioning of power steering or a/c.

this project was meant to start 3 days ago, but ive been founding it harder and harder to start without someone with solid knowledge or experience, and sorry about this next lash of anger, but TWOBRUTAL is not direct advice... it has a million different post of different build and even when they are the same build as me (1mz, turbo mr2, e153) the swap process is never exactly the same... 

Ok here's what I can tell you about these

johnnytran09
- u need 97+ donor car (easiest option, i got a 99 camry in manual)
- best starting platform is the 93+ turbo due to suspension and turbo hubs, axles, shift linkage, radiator and gearbox (i have a 90 turbo)
- upgrade your fuel pump (i already have a walbro 255) I'm using a stock N/A pump and it's fine
- upgrade your brakes (optional, i already have bigger slotted breaks and bigger calipers from a rev3 and braided break lines) 
- 4v6 or wood sport mount (i got a brand new 4v6, it was $100 off a guy from the forum)
- looms need to be spliced together
- fidanza flywheel using 4age fly bolts (flywheel is an option not required) I don't see why you'd need the ARP bolts if you're not going to be spinning this thing much above 6000rpm
- return fuel rail from a 3vz or a 95-97 1mz This is not necessary if you've installed an aftermarket FPR
- FPR to adjust the fuel pressure to 50psi (i already had one install in my 3sgte) I put a T piece between the fuel hardlines and the fuel rail. Off of this T I fitted an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator set at 42psi.
- v6 bellhousing should be swapped into the turbo tranny or you miss one or two bolts Often these swaps are done with bolts missing. I managed to get 5 bolts + 2 dowels in. Many only use 4 bolts + 2 dowels.
- its recommended you relocate your oil filter. Not really a big deal. It's easier to get at than a Rev 2 3SGE.

then there is a heap of post talking about relocating brake lines Not Necessary, clutch lines Not Necessary, changing your water pipes The flow needs to be reversed, there are a few ways of doing this, machining the passanger side axle. E153 specific (I don't know)
i havent found many that talks about getting around the immobiliser (without using a aftermarket ecu... i want to get it engineered and insured properly) or wiring diagrams or problems that people run into while doing the swap other then gearbox not lining up Only a problem if you can't align a clutch properly. no talks about repositioning of power steering(I don't know) or a/c Need custom made A/C lines made up.

this project was meant to start 3 days ago, but ive been founding it harder and harder to start without someone with solid knowledge or experience, and sorry about this next lash of anger, but TWOBRUTAL is not direct advice... it has a million different post of different build and even when they are the same build as me (1mz, turbo mr2, e153) the swap process is never exactly the same... 

 
You're going to need to spend a lot of time on twobrutal, you'll be doing lots of searching and reading to find the answers you need.
 
http://www.mr2.com/forums...-fe-swap-progress.html

Bro you need to hit up "Jaemus" or something on the other forum he's in Sydney
http://www.mr2forum.org/
This is essentially a Sydney mob so they might be able to give you a hand in person if ur really struggling. But keep posting here anyways we're always happy to help :)