Steve's doing both by the sounds of it.

I'll be getting a tune don't worry about that, more concerned with how much boost the 3sgte springs can take as I'd be running 20-25psi from a 3071.

I have adjustable cam gears too so that's sorted, it can't hurt to get the feelers out and make sure but it'll be nice if it's works out not needing anything else.

I think I see t way to much money on the 2 a long time ago, I'm committed now haha!!

What's happening with your mac daddy build?

It's coming together slowly but surely! I have the block and head sorted for it now but I want to get my brakes, suspension and drive train sorted before starting on the engine transplant. 
 
The next thing I need to address is some crunching going in to 3rd. Since the box was rebuilt 4 years ago I'm going to try new transmission oil (minus the friction modifiers currently used for the LSD) first and if that doesn't fix it then I'll get it rebuilt again.
 
In the mean time I've picked up some extra bits and pieces and I plan to have a bit of fun with them on the current setup to satisfy me in the mean time :)

Apologies for resurrecting this old thread. Do any of you have any gen2 3SGE cams in good condition that you would like to part with? I would like to try something.

Whilst Glen has resurrected the thread, are there gains to be had with the gen3 3sgte upgrading to gen3 3sge cams?

IMO If running higher boost, fuel to support, cams tuned/dialled in on a dyno, etc...
Intake cam 3sge gen3 manual (9.8 at 252) vs 3sgte gen3 (8.2 at 240) yes gains,
exhaust cam 3sge gen3 manual (8.2 at 236) vs 3sgte gen3 (8.2 at 240) no gain.

Gen3 3sgte was designed for the cams and rpm range. If you increase lift, serious consideration of upgrading the 20+ year old stock valve springs to match the lift, boost, rpm etc.

Check your head casting that the higher lift in camshaft doesn't catch.

The above redesign of an intake cam upgrade would be breathing more air in at a higher boost (lots of air in, chilled through your uprgaded intercooler to a nice 40 degrees), combustion :) and then trying to get the burnt fuel/air (at say 1,500 degrees) to escape at the same valve movement as stock (not going to happen). Challenge with that equation is more chance for recirculating exhaust gas (1,500 degree) not escaping the cylinder, that is bad news for engine temps regardless of your cooled intake temp and consequent deadly outcomes of longevity.

YES - upgrading valve springs is essential. I learnt this the hard way. Extra lift + extra boost = deformed valves and seats.

Ok thanks for the info guys, sounds like unless I were to get say aftermarket intake and exhaust cams as well as giving the rest of the valve train an overhaul its probably not worth changing my cams.
I was just interested to see if their may have been some easy gains to be had without going to in-depth overhauling the engine.